The first successful hunt my son went on was a turkey hunt. He was ten years old.  When the shot was fired from his 20 gauge and the bird went down, you would have thought he had just won the lotto or been drafted by the Detroit Tigers; he was that excited! I have hunted big game across North America and from the time my son was born, I always thought that turkey hunting would be the hunting sport I introduced him to first. Below are five reasons I decided to take him turkey hunting before I introduced him to deer hunting.

The success rate when turkey hunting is extremely high, which is one of the main reasons adults enjoy turkey hunting.  Let’s face it: we all love to deer hunt.  It can be fun but deer hunting is also a lot of work.  Deer hunting is a lot of work and the success rate, especially when hunting on public land, is extremely low.  I believe many kids get turned off by hunting in general because the first hunt they go on is a deer hunt.  After a long weekend of deer hunting, many kids are ready to walk away from hunting before they ever get started.  Why is this the case?  Deer hunting is often a marathon.  It takes a lot of time and effort to be successful.  A young child doesn’t have the patience for a marathon.

They prefer a 50-yard dash.  Most parents or hunting mentors who scout ahead of time will have a good idea of where turkeys are living before they take a kid hunting. If birds can be located and patterned, the odds of success are extremely high.  If a young hunter fills his tag, chances are he will be hooked for life.  We all enjoy being successful.  Kids especially need to be successful in the field or they will quickly lose interest and go back to playing video games.   

Turkey hunting is great for kids because the hunt itself is fast-paced.  We live in a world full of technology.  Kids are used to being on the go and being entertained.  I don’t always agree with it, but it is a fact of life.  Turkey hunting is a fast-paced hunt that doesn’t require kids to sit still in one place for hours like deer hunting often does.  Most turkey hunters are on the go most of the day.

I usually don’t sit for more than an hour or two at a time when turkey hunting.  If birds don’t respond to my calls in one area, I keep walking and calling or get in the truck and check out another hunting spot.  Kids enjoy being on the go and turkey hunters who spend a lot of time covering ground in search of a Tom are often rewarded with success.

Why do most adults who turkey hunt enjoy it so much? Calling in turkeys is a lot of fun! I called in my first turkey by myself at 15 years old. The first time I yelped on my mouth call and the tom gobbled back, I was hooked for life. Forty-five minutes after the first gobble, I pulled the trigger on my 12 gauge.  I will never forget walking up on the bird and wrapping my tag around his foot.  Calling in a strutting tom is action-packed. The interaction between the caller and the turkey creates a lot of excitement.  My son missed a turkey or two before he controlled his nerves enough to hold his gun steady.  The excitement of calling in a turkey can rattle the nerves of kids and adults.

Young hunters can quickly become decent callers and call in their own birds, which adds even more fun to the hunt.

Turkey hunting is extremely affordable. Next to small game hunting, turkey hunting is probably the least expensive hunt out there.  My son’s first turkey tag cost me $7.50!  Many kids start out turkey hunting with an inexpensive single shotgun.  A box or two of shells won’t break the bank either.

Turkey hunting out of state isn’t expensive. In fact, the first longbeard my son ever killed was killed in another state. I have turkey hunted in a dozen or more states.  In fact, it is my favorite critter to hunt out of state and my son has caught the bug.  If you take a kid on an out-of-state deer hunt, it will cost a lot of money and the odds of success are fairly small.  If you take a kid turkey hunting out-of-state, the cost of the hunt is minimal and the odds of success are high.  In fact, many states offer an early youth season which helps stack the odds in a kids’ favor.  We all enjoy going on out-of-state hunts and kids do too!  Hunting somewhere you have never been is fun and will result in lasting memories you and your kids will never forget!

Last but not least, one of the greatest reasons to introduce a kid to turkey hunting before deer hunting is because they will get to experience the satisfaction that comes from eating what they kill. Some kids don’t want to eat wild game but because most kids are accustomed to eating turkey, they will eat wild turkey. My son’s face was glowing the first time he sat down at the dinner table and realized that he provided dinner for the entire family. Instilling in kids that eating wild game is a big part of the reason we hunt while they are young is important.  Eating a wild turkey that they killed is a great way for them to fully understand why we hunt.

Taking a kid turkey hunting can be extremely rewarding. Yes, it does require a healthy dose of patience.  Yes, it might require some work and a lot of effort.  But, like anything in life, you will get out of it what you put into it and so will your child!  Helping a kid get their first turkey is something they will never forget.

Spend much time talking to any group of serious hunters and it’s only a matter of time before those hunting around them come up, and it’s pretty rarely a good thing. Often, they don’t hold to the same harvest goals as we do, don’t hunt as “smart” and generally educate every deer within the tri county area that we’re chasing them. Obviously, they’re no where near as good as we are and are ruining our hunting in the process.

Now, I would contend to my last breath that they have every right to engage in any legal activities they so choose on their grounds. It’s up to each of us to find the “fun factor” in hunting and not give a pinch of salt what the neighbors may think, as it’s none of their darn business.

On the bright side, the exact same set of rules applies to us. Because of that, if we employ a little creativity, we can literally transform those hunt ruining neighbors into hunt making resources. Here’s just a couple ways how.

Before we get deeper, we need to flesh out a couple points. The first is that deer are no different than our dog at home, in one important way. We can train them to fear or accept anything.

To illustrate, imagine keeping the dog’s bowl full at all times, but hiding in the corner from 6 AM to 6 PM. During that time, whenever the dog starts eating, you come flying out of the corner and kick it in the butt across the room. Now, please don’t do that, but you shouldn’t have to in order to realize that it’s only a matter of time before that dog is trained not to fear food, but to shift that feeding exclusively to between 6 PM and 6 AM.

The same applies to hidden fences. Feel free to leave the shock collar on until the batteries die. After that, odds are you can remove the collar and the dog stays in the yard, as its already been successfully trained not to leave.

Now, factor how deer deal with hunting pressure into the equation. Every telemetry study on pressured deer I’ve seen essentially concludes the same thing. When pressure ramps up, it is very rare for the pressured deer to leave their home range. That makes sense, as it’s all they know. Instead, they head for the areas they feel safe on that ground and generally stay in those areas during daylight.

In other words, we trained them to go where we aren’t. If the area is more than a very small pocket of cover, they’ll often even move freely within those areas during daylight, but rarely leave them until after dark, typically returning again before first light.

I’m sure some are already connecting the dots. In order to transform those neighbors from the scourge of our humanity to our best friends, make your ground the area they head to when they feel pressure. Doing that is actually very easy in principle. Make the deer feel like they aren’t being hunted there and the pressure literally drives them into your arms. It’s really that simple.

Where it gets slightly more challenging is to be able to hunt the snot out of that ground, while still tricking the deer into feeling they’re safe there. To do that, they can’t smell, hear or see you. It really doesn’t matter if you’re there or not, so long as that’s the case, the impact on those deer is exactly the same.

The rub is that low impact, high odds stands tend to be rare in nature. For those that control their hunting grounds, that merely means you may want to lay out improvements to manufacture those low impact, high odds stands. There well may not be a low impact, high odds option, a mere 100 yards off the road. Get in there with a chainsaw alone and you’re likely to be able to make one, though. Bring some seeds with and odds just got better.

I’m afraid this piece isn’t about the specifics of how to manufacture these locations, as that’s a piece in and of itself. In fact, it took me an entire book. The key though is merely being creative and manufacturing a deer flow that leads them past low impact, high odds stands. Just that quick, the neighborhood shenanigans is working for not against you.

The application doesn’t stop there, though. Remember, we humans are training deer every time we step into the deer woods what to fear and what’s harmless. That applies to more than just sucking pressured deer to your grounds.

In areas where deer have been trained to avoid blinds, merely brush them in a bit or use more natural variations, such as Bale Blinds

Watch how the neighbors hunt and see what not to do. A great example is if and how they use enclosed, elevated box and ground blinds. If they’re using a bunch of them, it’s a pretty safe bet they’re trained deer to fear them.

What?! Now you’re telling me that they are ruining my stand options, as well? No, not at all. Elevated and ground blinds can still be deadly effective, no matter how much the neighbors do or don’t use them.

The key is merely how much blending one must do. For example, I hunt some areas that are about as high of hunting pressure as it gets, but it’s most all stalking and tree stand hunting. In those scenarios, I have nothing against setting any kind of a blind right in the wide open. Now, it admittedly takes special circumstances for me to put them in the open, but it has nothing to do with deer fearing my blinds. It’s merely that pressured deer don’t enter the open during daylight much, unless forced.

On the flip side, another property I manage is in what I’d consider a very lightly pressured area, with the exception of an outfitter on one side. They have a handful of elevated, homemade boxes that are housing hunters more days than not from the first day of deer season to the last. Every elevated blind I set, I ended up moving to break them up better, as the outfitter trained the deer to avoid any set out in the open. After blending them into some trees, they’ve become truly killer setups.

I know human nature is generally to find others to pin our issues on. If that works for you, by all means continue. Personally, I’ve found much more success in doing what I can to transform negatives into positives. Keeping tabs on the neighbors, realizing that they are training the local deer what to avoid, can put us in position to transform their activities from negatives to positives, bolstering our hunting experiences.

Besides, life’s too short to go around being mad at the neighbors. Most of them are pretty great people. They merely don’t always hunt like we do.

In Episode 02 of the Drop-Tine Report, we interview Tony Walker from The American Way TV Show. Walker recently shot a buck that scores almost 200 inches. We highlight his successful hunt and how he manages his small piece of hunting property.

By Jeff Sturgis, Habitat Design Specialist / Owner of Whitetail Habitat Solutions

One of the most effective ways to get deer within bow range of your treestand is by creating a travel corridor right past it. Deer are creatures of habit, and they often take the path of least resistance within the landscape. Corridors serve as a great method of getting deer to travel from point A to point B along a path that you’ve created.

A critical aspect of travel corridor creation is insuring that you choose the right dimensions for the deer herd in your area. Throughout the range of the whitetail’s habitat, there is ever changing topography, cover type, and percentage of agriculture. Depending on local conditions, deer will tolerate different amounts of confining tangled cover. Deer may avoid corridors and bedding areas all together if they are too confining, so be sure to account for local conditions.

In areas with minimal topographical changes and agriculture utilizing 80-90% of the landscape, deer will tolerate much narrower and confining corridors. In these coverless ag regions, deer are forced to live in close proximity to one another. By compartmentalizing the habitat and movements, you can create more efficient features in the habitat that can accommodate high numbers of deer.

Heavily screened bedding areas, unobtrusive food plots, and narrow travel corridors all help to compartmentalize your habitat improvements. 1-2’ trails between bedding and feeding areas are a great start to effective travel corridors. Remove any logs, branches, or dense vegetation from the trails so that deer can easily meander between habitat features.

A great way to gauge if the trail is clear enough is whether or not you could ride a bike through it with ease. Once the trail is clear, hinge small (4-6” diameter) trees away from and perpendicular to the corridor to create screening side cover. Finally, tie young growth and saplings across the corridor to create hoops above the trail 4-6’ from the ground. In these high agriculture regions, deer will frequently utilize these hooped, narrow and confining corridors, but only if they are free of obstructions, so be sure to clear any fallen branches or debris that may fall and clog your corridor!

Avoid creating a canopy or tunneled corridor in areas that deer are accustomed to a more open habitat. This option offers a safer approach to ensuring that your corridor is not too narrow or confining. Without hinging alongside or hooping over the trails, simply clear logs and branches from the trail so that deer have no obstacles to hop over or duck under. Trails can be 3-4’ wide and should be easy to pass through.

These moderately sized corridors require little to no maintenance, but should be kept clear or fallen logs or large branches. This method mimics a more natural feature in the habitat, and exploits the theory that deer will simply follow the path of least resistance between bedding areas and food sources.

While hooped and hinged narrow travel corridors undoubtedly have their place in areas of little cover and high agriculture, they can be completely avoided in areas where deer are used to more open habitat. The best recommendation I can offer, is to mimic the natural conditions of the region your parcel is located in. If your travel corridors blend with the local conditions, deer will utilize them! With strategic placement, you can easily encourage deer to travel within bow range of your treestands.

As farm land gets turned into strip malls and Wal-Mart parking lots and as the large wooded lot behind our houses gets tuned into another subdivision more and more of us are being forced to hunt deer on smaller tracts of land. 20 years ago it wasn’t uncommon for most of us to have hundreds of acres we could hunt simply by knocking on a farmers door or making a phone call. Times have changed. Now many of us find ourselves hunting on 50 acres or less. If we are lucky we have an 80 or 100 acres lease. Trying to hold deer on a small piece of property and take a large buck can be a huge challenge but the truth is it’s not impossible.

Noted whitetail biologist CJ Winand spends a lot of time hunting on small tracts of land in suburbia America largely to thin out deer numbers. He says one good thing about deer is they can live anywhere.

“Deer are very good at adapting to the amount of woods they have available” Winand said. “Just because hunters are forced to hunt small woods doesn’t mean they can’t harvest a whopper. I have seen several large bucks taken off of small parcels of land that I manage. To keep deer on small parcels of land deer need food and shelter without a lot of pressure.”

A few years ago I experienced what Winand is talking about first hand. Behind a local church is a small wood lot about 15 acres in size. On occasion I would see deer milling around on the property so I decided to place a scouting camera in the wood lot to see what kind of bucks this small tract of land had to offer the suburbia hunter.

To my surprise within a week I got pictures of several bucks on the camera. A couple of them were nice bucks for my area. One buck in particular scored well over Pope and Young. What does the 15 acres have to offer the big buck. everything he needs.

“Suburbia deer often have it made because they have water, grass and no hunting pressure so they can survive on very small tracts of land for years and years” Winand said.

If you have 40 acres to hunt out in the middle of farm country or in the middle of town realize you can increase the amount of time deer spend on your property if you are willing to do a little work. “For starters everyone knows that bucks respond to pressure very quickly. On small tracts of land it won't take much human pressure to make a buck change his routine” Winand said.

A recent study showed that permanent stands that have been hung in a tree and left there for years can quickly destroy a great hunting spot. “Studies have shown deer will go 60-100 yards out of their way to avoid treestands when they know they are there” Winand said. How many of us when hunting small woods have one or two stand locations and they are the same every year. Deer will quickly catch on to the game. “I suggest hunters move their stands or blinds every once in a while, all it take sometimes is moving a stand 20 or 30 yards and they are back in the zone.”

Also keep human activity on your property to a minimum. “Deer will quickly catch on to an increased amount of human pressure in their core area so it is best to get in and get out when planting plots, putting in scouting cameras and hanging stands,” Winand explained. “Unless you are hunting an area that sees a lot of human activity all the time staying out of the woods as much as possible is a good idea.” Winand also suggests never hunting a stand location more then twice a week. Any more then that and the deer will probably avoid the area.

Making sure the deer always have something to eat on a small property will also keep them on the property more.

“The biggest problem with small wood lots is in many cases deer will travel through them but they don’t live their. To make a deer live on your property you must provide them with food and shelter, which isn’t as hard to do as many people think”.

Winand suggests that hunters plant fruit growing trees. Deer love apples but many people don’t think about planting a few on their property because many people believe they take forever to grow. Many crab apple varieties and normal table apples can be grown relatively quickly with a little bit of care. Placing cages over them and a weed mat of some kind around the trunk will keep weeds as bay so the tree gets plenty of nutrients and isn’t competing with weeds. Fertilizing them and watering them if needed also helps a tree produce fruit much faster then just planting a tree and walking away. With a little care a fruit tree will be producing enough fruit to hunt over in a few years if you plant a tree that is a few inches in diameter when the tree is planted.

Another tree worth planting is an oak tree. All hunters know deer love acorns but most oak trees take years to mature to the point where they produce large amounts of acorns. That isn’t the case anymore.

“I now plant a burr oak/white oak cross that matures very quickly. They will start producing large amounts of acorns in just a few years if the tree is taken care of properly.” Winand said.

The good news about both oak trees and apple trees is they drop their fruit in the fall. This will keep deer on your property and the most important time of the year.

Winand also loves planting corn. “When most hunters think of food plots they think of clover but the truth is corn is a great food plot for small parcels of land because it not only provides food it provides cover which is one thing many small pieces of land are missing” Winand said.

“Once corn grows a few feet tall deer will start bedding it. It gets them out of the sun and the wind and the soil is often cool so deer stay cool while bedding in corn. Once the corn matures the deer have another food source.”

The saying is knee high by the 4th of July but Winand doesn’t like that saying when it comes to corn being planted as a food plot. “Research has shown that deer actually like corn the best during the tasling stage so I plant corn in the summer so it tastles about October 1st which is of course a great time to hunt near the edge of the corn.” According to Winand a large amount of water is found in corn and on the stalks of corn which also provides deer with another important part of their diet - water.

Creating good bedding areas will always help keep deer on a piece of property. “Studies have shown that deer living in big woods may have a core area of where they spend 50% of their time or more of several hundred acres. On small pieces of property a deer may only have a core area of 50 acres or less”

“Creating bedding areas really helps keep deer on a small parcel.” There are lots of ways to create bedding areas. Some people plant switch grass or plant thick bushes. Winand like planting pine trees or cutting large trees down.

“White pines grow fast and within a few years several rows of white pines will be a great spot for deer to bed. White pines are cheap and work great for bedding.”

Winand also believes one of the best bedding areas is created by cutting down trees.

“Deer love bedding in the middle of a nasty, thick bunch of down trees, creating them just requires a chain saw. Thick brush will soon grow where trees once stood and deer will start bedding in the middle of it.”

To keep bucks on small property Winand says shoot does and lots of them.

“Does will push a button buck out of their home range once they reach maturity. That means the buck will be forced to leave and the doe will still be their. By harvesting does there will likely be more bucks in the area and less pressure on the food sources as well”.

The more pressure their is on food sources the smaller the bucks will be because their simply wont be enough food to go around.

“Some studies indicate that a deer will consume about 5 pounds of forage a day. That is over 1800 pounds a year. That is just one deer! Reducing the doe population will keep more bucks in the area and help the remaining herd be healthier.”

Every small piece of land is different. Some ground has lots of food but no bedding areas, some places have bedding areas but no food. Before starting an aggressive management plan Winand suggests taking a good look at what your property has to offer and what it is lacking.

“When considering what to do on a small tract of land hunters must not only look at their own piece of property but also look at the property around them. If their isn’t any water for miles and miles digging a pond will help keep deer on a piece of land. If their is lots of food but no cover in an area build bedding areas. If a hunter or group of hunters creates for deer what they are lacking be it food or shelter their is going to be more deer on their property.” 

Small parcels of land can be hard to manage. Lets face it your not going to keep a 200 inch deer on your property from daylight til dark if you only own 50 acres. However, if you give him shelter he may stay their during daylight hours, if you give him food he will stay their even more especially if the does are feeding on that food in the rut. Winand and most land managers I talk to all agree on one thing. Every piece of property can be approved upon.

Creating bedding areas you stay out of, and only hunting a piece of property a few days of week is probably the easiest thing that can be done to make a piece of property attractive to deer. Planting trees, food plots and tightly managing the doe population can take a lot of effort, time and money, BUT The more you do to make your parcel attractive the better chance you have of seeing large bucks on your land.

In the last 5 years more and more monster bucks have been taken on small tracts of land then ever before proving that just because you don't have 1,000 acres doesn’t mean who won’t be gripping and grinning with a monster this fall.

Food plots have been all the rage with deer hunters for over a decade. If you turn on TV and watch a hunting show, you will probably see someone hunting whitetails over a food plot. Most of the food plots that show up on TV are far from your average food plot. Most TV food plots are as green as a Leprechaun’s thumb, the size of a Major League Baseball field (or larger), and are as groomed as a golf course.

Although this type of food plot looks great and attracts deer, large food plots are expensive, require lots of equipment and knowledge to maintain, and aren’t always practical for the average hunter.  

Almost every hunter I know from the guy with five acres to the guy with 550 acres wants to plant a food plot, but after seeing the gorgeous food plots on TV, many of them give up realizing they can’t build such a plot. If you are a hunter who wants to build a food plot but don’t have the time or resources to build a monster plot, realize there is hope for you!

According to Steve Scott, of the Whitetail Institute there are several advantages to building a smaller plot.

Small food plots are the perfect killing plot for bowhunters and gun hunters. One of the biggest advantages of a small food plot, according to Jeff Best from Best Outdoors in Michigan, is cost. Best makes his living selling food plot equipment like seeders and cultipackers.

If planting a small plot sounds like a good idea and you are going to plant a small plot mainly because you don’t own a large chunk of land or have much money to spend, you must get the job done right the first time. The last thing you want to do is make a mistake during the planting process and spend lots of money on seed and have to plant again. The first thing you must do is have a pH test done.

Many companies, including Whitetail Institute, sell pH test kits. For a small fee, they send you a test kit. You fill a small bag with dirt and send it back for testing. After the soil is tested, the company will send you a letter or email informing you what type of seed will grow best in your soil and tell you how much lime you will need to put down to bring your pH level up to where it needs to be.

After your soil is tested, you need to clear all weeds from the area to be planted.

When the weeds are gone, it is time to break up the soil.

Another option is using an ATV or small lawn tractor with a tiller or disc. “Even dragging an old wooden pallet behind a garden tractor will work, especially if some large nails are hammered into the bottom of the pallet that can tear up the soil,” Scott suggested. However, you do have to make sure soil is exposed and then it is time to seed. A seeder is relatively inexpensive for most seed types.

After the seeding is complete, Best suggests using a cultipacker to make sure the seed is in contact with the soil, not just sitting on top of the soil.

The biggest problem when planting a small food plot is deer will often love the food plot to death after the plot starts to grow. There are a couple ways to reduce this problem to ensure that the food plot is lush and green when deer season arrives.

Another option is protecting the plot by using a deterrent to keep deer out of the plot while it is growing. Plot Saver and Plot Protect are two great examples. Plot Protect is a clay-based product that you shake around the perimeter of the plot. The clay granules are impregnated with coyote or bobcat urine. The smell of the urine keeps the deer at bay while the plot grows.

Putting a small electric fence around the plot is another option. Non-Typical Wildlife Solutions makes the HotZone deer Exclosure System which is an inexpensive portable electric fence that can be plugged into an outlet or run off solar energy. Regardless of which option is chosen, in most cases, a small plot will need to be protected from the deer while growing or it will never reach maturity before the deer devour it.

When planting a small plot, realize that in order for it to grow, it needs adequate sunlight.

If you ask ten different experts, ‘when is the best time to plant a food plot,’ you will likely get several answers. If you are planting an annual food plot that is being planted to hunt over in the fall, Scott suggests planting in the late summer or early fall.

A benefit to planting in early fall is you often don’t have to worry about drought conditions as much.

If you are on a budget and don’t have the time or money to plant several plots and are planting one killing plot, it better be planned out perfectly.

For those of us with a few acres and shallow pockets, a small killing plot can be a dream come true. A little elbow grease, a rake, and a small bag of seed can produce one of your greatest hunting spots.

Many of us have stand locations that are off the beaten path where it is nearly impossible to get an ATV, tractor or truck into. If you want to plant a plot in a location like this, realize that most food plot companies have seed blends specifically designed for such a place.

Many of the blends designed for deep in the woods contain a pH booster that helps the seed grow in soils that are a little AcidicThese blends are often shade tolerant, in case the area doesn’t receive much sun. They also contain a variety of annuals so something is always growing. The biggest advantage is a small, secluded plot can be grown inexpensively. A bag of seed, a rake and some effort are the only requirements.

If you have been a deer hunter long, you have probably lost a deer or two because of a bad shot. Unfortunately, it is part of hunting. Sometimes we make a bad hit because a buck jumps a string. Sometimes buck fever sets in or an arrow hits a twig. Whatever the reason, sooner or later it happens and when it does, you are forced to make a decision.

Should you back out or should you go look for the buck? Answering this question can be extremely difficult. Instead of quickly answering the question, more hunters are calling in a blood tracking dog to find the deer.

John Engelken from BloodTrackingDogs.com knows more than most about blood tracking. Engelken is considered by most the best blood tracker in the country. The Drury’s, Lee & Tiffany Lakoski, Chris Brackett and many other famous and not-so-famous people have called on Engelken when they cannot find a buck they shot.

According to Engelken, there is no cut and dry answer to the above question, but he has some tips. “When a hunter realized his hit wasn’t a good one, they should back out and analyze the situation. One mistake many hunters make when they shoot a buck and don’t find it right away is calling all of their buddies and hiking around, looking for blood and any sign of the buck. All this pressure could jump the buck if he is still alive and the more people there are in the woods, the harder it will be to track the buck with a dog later on,” Engelken explained.

Tracker John's tracker shack at Illinois Connection

According to Engelken, the first call every hunter should make after shooting a deer and not finding it is to a qualified bloodtracker who has a highly trained dog. “Blood tracking dogs are becoming extremely popular so more hunters know someone with a tracking dog. The problem is like with any hunting that involves a dog, not all dogs are trained well enough to track hard to find deer.

When I say the first call should be to a tracker, the call needs to be to someone with a highly trained dog. The call should be made before several guys have wandered all over the woods looking for the deer. When many hunters go looking for deer, they often spread the scent from the wounded animal all over the woods, which makes the recovery more difficult for the handler and the dog,” Engelken added.

 A bloodhound is considered one of the best blood tracking breeds in the world.

When Engelken receives a call, the first thing he determines is how long he should wait before going to look for the animal.

“The biggest mistake many hunters make is rushing in to look for a deer. In most cases, I like to wait at least twelve hours before going in to look for a deer. Weather is always a factor. Sometimes I make the decision to put my dogs on a trail earlier, but for the most part, waiting at least twelve hours is best whether it is a gun shot, a one-lung hit or a shoulder hit. Rarely does a person lose a deer because they waited too long. Many people lose a deer when they jump it from a bed and it takes off, never to be seen again. If a big storm is coming, if the weather is very warm or some other factor that makes me think we better look early I will, but I use bloodhounds. They have a great nose so I don’t mind waiting a little longer before starting a trail.”

Doug Benefield from Illinois Connection is all smiles after Jesse the bloodhound saves the day.

Engelken often waits twelve or more hours before going to look for a deer because he wants the deer to die as close to where it was shot as possible. If a buck leaves the property it was shot on, there can be problems. I work in areas where the ground is intensely managed for monster bucks. If a buck leaves the property it was shot on, it could go onto another piece of property that I won’t be able to get permission to track on so it is always best to play the waiting game. Most land owners don’t want other hunters or a tracking dog on the property,” Engelken stated.

If you find yourself wondering if you have waited long enough after making a questionable hit on a deer this fall and you are not sure if you should stay where you are or go in after the deer, you should probably wait longer. “A good tracking dog can find a buck even if the trail is cold. Even if there is no visible blood, a hunter is best to wait and let the dog do its job,” Engelken advised.

In case you are wondering how cold of a trail a dog can work, I found out about John Engelken and his amazing bloodhounds when a friend of mine used him to find a buck that was shot over a week before Engelken was called. The hunter hired several dog trackers and they couldn’t find the buck, even though the hunter knew the deer was dead.

Engelken’s dog found the deer in less than 30 minutes. There is no question Engelken and his dogs know how to find deer. “I have been using John’s tracking services for years. He has found countless deer for my clients over the years and even though he sometimes waits a long time before he starts looking for a buck, more often than not if the deer is dead and on property we can track on, he finds the deer,” Doug Benefield from Illinois Connection in Pike County, Illinois said.

This fall if you find yourself in a bad situation, call a blood tracker and wait at least twelve hours. If the deer is dead and you are patient, the odds are you will be calling a taxidermist and punching your tag.

I was beyond frustrated with myself. I’d just invested a full week’s worth of effort into clearing an in-woods kill plot with a chainsaw and gallons of sweat. I’d raked the debris, top seeded the ground and the plants were already emerging. Now, having packed the stand in with me, I walked in circles, staring at trees, fruitlessly trying to will one of them to work.

This is a problem far too many have. We all realize that having low impact stands to hunt is a key to success and keeping a property fresh. Still, far too often it’s an afterthought to our efforts to improve a property’s hunting quality.

Frankly, we reverse the steps for plot creation. The end result is often disappointment and almost never produces the best results. Here’s how to change that.

The first step in creating the best possible kill plots is to throw out how most of us think about the process. Typically, the first step is determining what areas would be easiest for establishing the plot. That makes some sense, in that few realize how comparatively cheaply one can rent a dozer or how much they can get done in one day.

To this day, I’ve never paid more than $100 an hour for a dozer and operator, and I can always get it for less than $70 an hour, if I’m willing to do the operating. For less than the cost of a new bow, one can almost always get at least three new kill plots cleared, as well as a few small water holes and improved access, and that’s being conservative for most properties.

For about the price of a new bow, one can get a dozer to transform the hunting on a property for a lifetime of enjoyment.

For those that can’t justify the dozer charge or simply want to do it themselves, a chainsaw can be a thing of beauty. Somehow, we’ve been trained to believe that food plot quality must rival cash cropping. It doesn’t. Most weeds are cheap deer food and seeding around stumps is far from the end of the world. In fact, if the trees are cut at around chest level, those stumps help offer a smidgen of deer cover, as well as serving as posts to hang lick branches from. So long as we have some candy crops growing, that’s good enough for the deer.

Leaving stumps in the kill plot not only helps deer feel safer in the kill plot from the cover they provide, but also allows us to hang licking branches that help transform our kill plots into social hubs.

Next, we must consider entrance, exit and stand placement. There’s a tremendous advantage to being able to slip in and out, as well as hunt undetected. Unfortunately, high odds stands very rarely naturally offer low impact.

Before ever considering putting in a new food plot, extremely important questions must be answered. Some as basic as where the deer will be during travels to and from, as well as while on the stand. One obviously needs to go unseen or heard while doing those things. What many fail to consider is that they also should do their darnedest not to get winded during those three phases of the hunt. One just can’t do that if they don’t know where the deer will be during those times.

One must also factor in how this new plot will impact deer activity. Since we’re talking kill plots here, a very effective strategy is placing the kill plot around 50 yards off the main food source, located on one of their existing lines of movement between bedding and that food source. That right there is going to help a lot, as the deer will likely be staging in the kill plot, moving on to the primary food source in the evening or bedding in the morning. By the deer not camping out on the kill plot, one can often wait for the deer to leave before climbing out of stand.

However, one must also be able to get to and from the location, without being seen, heard or winded. That makes low impact access and departure routes important. One also must have a wind the plot can be hunted from safely.

There’s only one way I’m aware of to consistently pull all of this off. That’s to determine safe access, departure and stand placement, before one ever begins clearing or breaking dirt. After learning how the deer use your ground and anticipating how the change will impact deer movements, the next step is figuring out how to hunt is safely. Simply put, if one can’t access, depart and hunt the stand without getting busted, the area isn’t right for a kill plot. Keep looking until one is found or, worse case, select the least potentially damaging sites that still will provide a high odds kill plot.

An important factor in killing ancient bucks like this in kill plots is for them to never sense danger on the plot. Determining access, departure and safe stand locations before trees are cleaned or the ground is broken is the key to pulling that off.

With that done, build the kill plot around the stand location, not the more common reverse of that. When clearing the plot, one can use the removed trees and brush to create blockades. Use that to your advantage by blocking the areas you don’t want deer to enter or exit, while leaving ample, easy to travel areas where it is both safe and within shooting distance of the stands.

This is where Rednecks offer a huge advantage. Unlike various tree stands, Rednecks can be placed darn near anywhere, in that they don’t require a suitable stand tree. Certainly, they are benefitted from being able to blend the blind into cover, but even that isn’t a must have. In just the past season, we’ve taken both a 5.5 and a 6.5 year old buck, as well as my daughter’s first doe out of Redneck hunting blinds that are sitting in wide open fields.

To pull this off, two things must be done. They can only be hunted on safe winds and the deer can’t see the hunter entering or existing the Redneck. So long as the hunters are careful and don’t give deer reasons to associate danger with the blind, a Redneck can be effectively placed in the open.

Not only do Rednecks hunting blinds eliminate the need for an acceptable tree being where we need it, their complete enclosure allows us to safely hunt them in a much wider area, while also helping to contain scent.

One still needs to determine where the hunting blind will be set before clearing or ground breaking begins. However, Redneck users have far more flexibility in the precise placement of the blind than tree stands offer. As an added bonus, keeping the backside windows closed further reduces the odds of a rogue wind swirl educating deer.

To truly get the best hunting opportunities a property has to give, the trick is not allowing the deer to know we’re hunting them on that ground. When we successfully pull that off, our hunting grounds have the strong tendency to keep getting better and better with each passing day of season, as the neighboring hunting pressure pushes deer to what they see as their sanctuary on our grounds.

One can still hunt a property hard, while realizing that advantage. To do so, simply use your habitat improvements to create high odds, low impact stand sites. Determine how to get to and from, as well as hunt a location safely and you’ve got the game licked. Luckily, Rednecks make that even easier for us.

Even though we can see the date coming months in advance, it seems to happen in a blink of an eye! Steamy, hot summer days transform into sweatshirt wearing fall mornings and before you know it, it arrives: early season bowhunting begins! However, should it begin for you?

Even though many are decades old, the annual anticipation of another bow season is ripe with some of my fondest memories. The scar I received on my finger in 1987 from over tightening my broadheads the night before Michigan's bow season opener is still fresh in my mind (although faded on my finger). The pull towards climbing into my favorite archery ambush on opening day has been strengthened throughout the years, but an extreme level of patience has grown along the way.

Often I find myself waiting for early season bowhunting opportunities that are based on quality instead of a specific day on the calendar. There are 3 important factors to consider before heading into the woods for the first time this archery season.

Soaked with sweat and constantly buzzed by mosquitos is not a fun way to begin the early archery season, but often a bowhunter doesn't have a choice. However, what you have a choice about is hunting during the hottest days of the year.

My bow season opening day rarely begins on a particular day of the calendar because I choose to hunt only after a cold front has passed by. In southwest Wisconsin, that cold front drop may only be from a high of 81 to a daytime high of 72. Even a moderate drop of 8-10 degrees will cause whitetail activity levels to increase. With moderate cold fronts taking place often every 7-10 days throughout the fall, my opening day begins within 3-5 days of the actual opener almost every year. In 2015, I was able to take advantage of outstanding opening day cold front conditions to pass on a beautiful 4-year-old I was hoping to get a better look at. The weather and timing were perfect. I wasn’t disappointed and experienced my best bowhunting opener ever.

Countless publications reveal the first time into a stand is always the best time to shoot a mature buck. My harvest records reveal the same! In fact, almost 70% of my oldest 25 bucks have been shot the first time into a particular location for the year.

It is critical that if you expect to shoot a specific buck, he is already there. Mature bucks often shift into their preferred fall habitat at some point after the beginning of most bow season openers and that shift can be a mile or more. I recommend that if you are going to use your favorite big buck blind location, you make sure that the first time that you do so is set up for success. Lingering scent and deer that you spook during the entrance or exit of your blind can spoil a future high quality sit at least 2 weeks or more before it happens.

By using trail cams, observation tree stands or buck sign, you can make an educated decision that the particular buck you are after is there to go after in the first place. When you factor in the addition of some quality weather during a hunt for a buck that you know is already there, you can create an extremely high level of precision for an early season bowhunting sit. However, mature bucks on the trail cams and great weather aren't the only considerations!

Do you keep tabs on your hunting neighbors? I do! Often hunting neighbors are there for a weekend and gone for another week or two, especially during early season archery opportunities. Could your neighbor's efforts potentially hinder a particular mature buck movement that you would like to take advantage of? Maybe you should skip the opener.

Have you ever considered that high levels of hunting pressure on your neighbor's land could help you greatly, especially when it comes to neighboring weekend warriors? One of my favorite times to hunt are the Monday and Tuesday following a heavy weekend of neighboring hunting pressure. Mature bucks greatly avoid hunting pressure and when your hunting grounds are allowed to sit idle during high pressure days, you can experience great rewards. The risk of not beating someone to an opening day buck can be outweighed by the rewards of patiently waiting to hunt your land during quieter conditions. Some of the best pictures I have collected of bucks from other areas have been taken on Mondays and Tuesdays. Often it pays to time your early season bowhunting opener with your neighbor's level of hunting opening day pressure.

I still get pumped each season when the bowhunting opener rolls around. However, as the years tick by, I have learned to determine my personal opening day by keeping my eyes on the weather, my neighbor's success, and my trail cam pictures. You only get one chance to hunt a bow season opener each year, so I recommend that you do your best to make it count!

Jeff Sturgis of Whitetail Habitat Solutions is a whitetail habitat consultant and author of several whitetail strategy books. 

I have a reoccurring nightmare where a giant buck steps into my food plot at 20 yards, stands broadside and patiently waits for me to send an arrow at him. At this point I draw back, settle in, and promptly send my arrow through the edge of my Redneck Blind window sill, after which I instantly wake up in a cold sweat.

Luckily, this hasn’t happened to me in real life – and that’s because I practice those very situations to ensure it never does.

Hunting from a fiberglass hunting blind, soft side box blind, or hay bale hunting blind is different than sitting in a tree stand, there’s no doubt about that. And while many of these differences will be in your favor as a hunter, there are also a few that have the potential to botch your hunt if you’re not prepared for them. That said, here are four aspects of the hunt that you may want to practice when switching from a tree stand to a box blind.

If you’re leaving the windows on your blind closed to limit the spread of your human odor, you need to be prepared to carefully and quietly open these windows when a shot opportunity does eventually present itself. This process isn’t something you should be trying for the first time when there is a buck 30 yards in front of you. That said, before prime-time on your first hunt in the blind, make sure you practice getting those windows open as slowly and quietly as you can, and learn what pieces and parts might be a risk to make noise. Figure this all out now so that when the hunt is on the line, you’ll know exactly what to do.

When hunting with a bow in a box blind, different than when in a tree, there might be certain angles in a blind that you won’t be able to shoot from, or there might be a certain height you’ll need to be at to ensure you can shoot over the edge of a window, or you might need to adjust your draw sequence or form to ensure that you can get drawn and comfortable within the confines of the blind. That said, each time you set up in your box blind with a bow, practice drawing back and ensure that you have enough room to draw and the proper height to keep your arrow above the window. Additionally, you should move your hunting chair or other equipment within the blind around until you have a comfortable set-up and plenty of room to maneuver your bow from window to window.

When hunting with a rifle from a box blind, you’ll still want to make sure you practice your shot sequence. Have a thought-through process for getting your gun off whatever rest its on and up to your shoulder without knocking against the walls or shelves of the blind. Practice getting your barrel out the window and ready for a shot as well. It might seem simple, but it’s always better to know exactly how the process will go before the moment of truth is before you.

Whether you’re hunting with a gun or bow, it’s likely that when you get ready for a shot, it will require you to reposition your body or chair in some way. This again requires practice. The last thing you want to have happen is to have a big buck come in from an area where you can’t turn to shoot towards, or in the chaos of the moment knock over something in your blind while you’re trying to reposition. Practice getting repositioned for different shots and position equipment in the blind to allow you the necessary room to move.

For many whitetail hunters, there isn’t an off season. When we’re not perched 20 feet in a tree waiting for Mr. Big to walk by, we are hanging stands, planting food plots or knocking on doors looking for the next great lease. Many deer hunters zero in on areas where big bucks live and look for shed antlers just to pass the days until deer season opens again. For some hunters, finding sheds during the offseason is a hobby; for others, it’s an obsession. Finding sheds is like going on an Easter egg hunt for whitetail addicts. They look behind every tree, under every log, and turn over leaves and brush in hopes of finding that hidden jewel that tells them a monster buck lives in those woods.

Roger Sigler from Antler Dog Kennels in Missouri has found his fair share of shed antlers over the years. Sigler doesn’t rely on his eyesight alone to find shed antlers; he relies on the nose of his K-9 companion. “I have spent several decades training dogs and other animals. I have trained dogs for police departments, for prisons, and have worked with people in California who train dogs for show business. Several years ago, I placed dogs in the care of prisoners. Many of the dogs were abused or abandoned dogs that needed care. The dogs had someone to look after them and the prisoners had someone to care for. The dogs lived with the prisoners 24 hours a day. It was a great program and I saw many prisoners’ attitudes change because of the dogs,” Sigler explained.

Sigler wanted to start a training program with the dogs and the prisoners, but knew the prisoners wouldn’t be able to train the dogs for several reasons. “I knew the prison system wouldn’t allow me to teach the prisoners how to train the dogs to become drug sniffing dogs or police dogs, so I started researching what type of specialized training we could teach dogs that prisoners could get involved in. My options were to train dogs to bemorel mushroom hunters or shed antler hunters. I decided training shed dogs would be fun. Since I enjoyed bird hunting over hunting dogs, it was a perfect fit for me,” Sigler added.

The training program was a hit. Eventually Sigler retired from training police dogs and training prisoners how to train dogs. He concentrated his efforts on training shed dogs full-time. He and his well-trained dogs find hundreds of sheds every year. Sigler sells puppies and started dogs that are trained to be shed dogs. In 2010, he will offer finished shed dogs. According to Sigler, the Labrador Retriever is the best breed for finding shed antlers. “Labs are great shed dogs because they love to retrieve, they mind well, have a good nose, and aren’t high strung like many other hunting dog breeds,” Sigler stated. Although Sigler believes labs are the best, any dog with a great nose may be able to find sheds.

If you have a lab that you use for bird hunting, Sigler says it isn’t impossible to teach him how to become a shed finding machine. “My experience taught me that a dog that is already a bird hunter will hunt for birds first and foremost. If his master takes him shed hunting and the dog stumbles onto some fresh pheasant scent, the dog will quit looking for sheds and concentrate on finding the bird. My dogs are given sheds to play with when they are weeks old. They are trained to be shed dogs first and bird hunters second, which is the way it has to be if you want a dog that excels in finding shed antlers. I’m not saying that a bird dog can’t be trained to find sheds, but the dogs that are best at finding sheds are the ones that started when they were puppies,” Sigler explained.

If you are interested in having a shed hunting dog that sleeps and breathes finding sheds, purchase a puppy and train him the way Sigler does. If you want to have a dog that can find sheds regularly, use his proven training methods and you may end up with a decent shed dog.

Having a great shed finding dog starts when the lab puppy is young. “I start playing fetch with puppies when they are eight weeks old. It is very important to remember when purchasing a puppy that not all labs are created equal. Finding a dog that loves to retrieve is a must. We start having the dogs retrieve antlers right away. Grabbing an antler doesn’t come naturally so sometimes we use a ball and shove an antler tine through it. From early on, we want the dog to know we want them to retrieve antlers. We want them to love fetching antlers,” Sigler added. In addition to fetching antlers, Sigler teaches the dogs obedience. Obedience training is vital; the dog needs to know who to listen to and needs to do what the master says. He introduces them to the sound of a gun and water. This produces a well-rounded dog that can serve dual purposes. Sigler never uses shock collars or hits his dogs. “We want our dogs to work for us because they love to retrieve. For them, the antler is the reward. Food is used as a reward early on, but we want them to want the sheds. Finding the sheds, returning them to me and getting praised for it is what drives the dogs; not the fear of getting beaten,” Sigler stated.

After a puppy understands basic obedience, the trainer gradually introduces more time with antlers and teaches the puppy to find the antlers. They begin playing fetch with an antler so the dog becomes familiar with the smell of the antler. “The goal with this style of training is teaching the dog scent discrimination. An antler is no more important to a dog than a stick. After they realize that a shed is what we want, he will start sniffing it out and locating it. Making that transition isn’t always easy, but over time a dog will learn that his job is finding shed antlers,” Sigler noted. The best shed dog is the one that understands what you want them to do and becomes obsessed with it. “I have a dog that every time a visitor comes to the house, it runs and finds an antler to play fetch. Getting a dog to become obsessed with the game like that takes time and repetition,” Sigler added.

After a dog is five months old, fetches an antler, and has basic obedience skills, Sigler starts concentrating on teaching the dogs to find sheds in larger areas. “We begin in a large indoor arena. After they consistently find the sheds in the arena, we move outside where we let the dog find sheds in an area about half the size of a football field. Next, we move up to an area the size of a football field and then to about a five-acre piece of land. We then graduate to a 50-acre piece of land,” Sigler explained. This training process takes several months. Sigler points out that during the early stages of the game, the training should take place in a controlled environment indoors where the trainer is always a short distance from the dog and in complete control of the dog. Over time, when the dog consistently does as he is told in the controlled environment and finds the hidden sheds, he graduates to a larger playground.

When a dog understands what his job is, Sigler makes the game a little harder. “After a dog masters finding hidden sheds in large open areas, we sterilize the antlers so they don’t have any human odor on them. We hide three or five of them in a field at a time. After they find sheds in a field, we don’t return to that field for a week or more so the dog doesn’t get familiar with the field. The goal is to make them search for the sheds. If we train the dogs in the same field constantly, the dog will learn where to look for the antlers. Constantly switching things up forces the dog to use his eyes and nose to find the antlers,” Sigler added.

As with any finished gun dog, it takes years to turn a puppy into a great shed finding dog. One of the most important things to remember is when training a dog to find sheds, train them regularly to get them to the point where they can consistently find sheds in the woods. “The training process is a long one but in the end, a well-trained shed dog will double the number of sheds a person can find,” Sigler said. On a recent spring trip to Canada, Sigler and his dogs found 210 sheds in five days. Many of the dogs on the Canada shed hunting excursion are older, well-trained dogs whose goal in life is finding sheds. “Training a shed dog is a long-term commitment. Many guys don’t have the time it takes to produce a finished dog. If they make the time, they will be rewarded with a great shed hunting companion. If they don’t have the time, they can purchase a started dog from me that have the basics down. I will offer finished dogs in the next couple years,” Sigler added.

Sigler believes dogs excel at finding shed antlers after training is done for two reasons. The first is scent. “Dogs can easily smell the antler, especially if it is from the previous fall. Sheds that are several years old are harder for a dog to find, but they still sniff them out. The second reason is because they know what they are looking for and their heads are only inches off the ground. “A dog covers twice as much ground as a person and they are so close to the ground that they see sheds we would walk right by,” Sigler explained.

If you are into shed hunting and want to increase the number of sheds you find, pick up a lab puppy and start the training process. In 18-24 months, you may have a shed hunting buddy that loves looking for sheds as much as you do.

In the last decade, many bowhunters are realizing there are many benefits to hunting deer from a deer blind.

Bill Winke from Midwest Whitetail TV knows all about hunting whitetails from a deer blind. Winke spends over 70 days a year chasing big bucks and although he enjoys hunting out of a treestand, he believes every hunter should have a deer hunting blind or two on their property.

Winke spends a fair amount of time in Redneck Hunting Blinds mounted on their tower stands. According to him, blind placement is everything when hunting out of a tower blind, especially when bowhunting.

Winke says another option is to put the blind in a central location in the food plot where the deer typically pass by. The downside of this is that eventually deer will get downwind of you.

One reason Winke likes hunting out of tower blinds is it gives him options he doesn’t have when hunting out of a treestand.

One challenge hunters can face when hunting from a tower blind is getting in and out of them without being detected because the blinds are often in the open.

Of course one of the greatest benefits of using an enclosed blind is the comfort factor.

I love hunting from a treestand, but the older I get the more I like hunting from a Redneck Blind.

I can stay warm and dry regardless of what the weather outside is doing. My kids love hunting out of them as well. Both of my kids have taken numerous deer out the Redneck blinds. They can play on an iPad, move around and when a buck comes in, they get serious and hunt. There have been many times over the years that I would have been inside the house not hunting at all when we killed deer out of tower blinds because we can sit all day long when the weather is nasty.

There is no better way to introduce kids to hunting than out of an enclosed blind. There is something to be said for comfort. When you are comfortable, you can hunt harder and longer. The more hours you spend in the woods, the better odds you have of success. Comfort is one of the main reasons to hunt from a tower blind like a Redneck.

Some may think that an elevated blind isn’t really made for bowhunting, but Winke and serious bow hunters from across the country are discovering that tower deer blinds can be a secret weapon when the weather is bad, the wind isn’t right or when you want to sit all day during the rut. When placed in the right location, an elevated blind or hay bale blind can be a highly effective way to harvest a mature whitetail.

Sidebar: Not All Deer Blinds are Created Equal

If you want a tower blind that you can bow hunt out of, make sure you buy a blind that offers long vertical windows that make drawing and taking a shot with a bow a piece of cake. Another feature a tower blind should have is gaskets around the doors and windows. The gaskets help contain human odor and greatly reduce insect problems.

Research shows that more than any other factor, lack of places to hunt is what is driving hunters and outdoorsmen away from outdoor sports like bowhunting. Many believe finding a good place to hunt on public land is nearly impossible. Many people don’t have the money to buy a large chunk of private property so since they can’t find a good place to hunt, they walk away from the sport. There is a third option which is leasing. Some people love leasing land; others hate the idea of paying to hunt land. One thing is certain: regardless if you love it or hate it, leasing is here to stay and is probably one of the most affordable ways to hunt and experience good hunting without hunting with an outfitter or buying your own land.

Joe Brooks from Base Camp Leasing knows the ins and outs of leasing. Base Camp Leasing specializes in leasing hunting land to hunters. They are the go between for land owners and hunters. “Most land owners who lease are farmers who must find ways to bring income through the door. They grow crops, lease fields out and more of them are leasing hunting rights because they need the income. Leasing is one way for farmers to make money and for hunters to find a good place to hunt,” Brooks explained. According to Brooks, many people cringe when they think about leasing land but he believes we should consider it an investment. “Hunters have no problem spending a lot of money on equipment. We purchase new equipment so we can enjoy our sport. Leasing land is like buying equipment. One reason leasing is so popular and more farmers are leasing is because leasing requires the hunter to invest themselves in the property so they take care of it and treat it like their own.”

The question is: if you want to lease where do you lease and how much should you plan to pay? “The location of the property and how much property there is can greatly impact the price. Regardless of whether a person plans to go through a leasing company like ours or leases on their own, they need to be educated on what the going rate is where they plan to lease. Some leases are $10 an acre; others are $30 an acre.” Brooks warns people not to try to get a cheap lease. “Often a hunter will knock on the door of a landowner and try to give them a few hundred dollars for a lease. That might work for a year but it rarely works long term. If a hunter or group of hunters wants to lease a piece of property, they are best to do some research and know what the going rate is in the area per acre and offer the farmer the going rate.”

When considering a lease, one important thing to consider is whether the land owner lives on the ground where you will be hunting. “It is especially important when leasing out of state that the property owner lives on the ground you will be hunting, or near it. This will help reduce the chances of trespassing and hunting stands and other things being stolen. It’s something all potential leasers should consider,” Brooks advised.

Another important thing to consider is hunting rights. “When putting together a lease, it is important to note that hunters should make sure they are the only one with hunting rights. The last thing a hunter wants to see is the farmer’s son on opening day of deer season or the farmer’s uncle on the second day of the season. When putting a lease together, the hunters should always have all hunting rights. If not, it should be negotiated up front and in writing.”

Back in the good old days, it wasn’t uncommon for a lease to be negotiated over a cup of coffee and everything was finalized via a handshake. The good old days are gone. “A lease should be in writing so both sides know exactly what they will be receiving beforehand. A written contract is a necessity and keeps everything black and white with no gray area,” Brooks noted.

Another thing to consider is what you can do with the land. Some land owners may only allow you to park in a certain place and prohibit the use of ATV’s on their land. Other land owners may allow ATV use and allow you to put in food plots. Every land owner is different. Think about these things beforehand. “Some land owners will put in food plots for you, others will charge you and some will let you do it. All of that must be thought of beforehand,” Brooks suggested.

Brooks also advises leasing a piece of property for a year minimum. “In a year, you can get a lot done on a piece of property, understand the hunting, and potentially kill a nice buck. It gives you plenty of time to decide if you want to lease the property again. Leasing for a month or a few weeks during deer season doesn’t work very well,” Brooks stated. A yearlong lease gives you plenty of time to hang stands, put out trail cameras and scout. These things cannot be done in a few weeks.

When leasing, a subject that will always come up is liability insurance. Everyone is afraid of being sued these days and having liability insurance calms the fears of the land owner. “When someone leases through us, we provide three million dollars of liability insurance which will protect both parties in case something goes wrong,” Brooks said. 

If you are the type of person who wants to handle a lease on your own, there is an organization out there called The American Hunting Lease Association that will provide you with a contract to use between you and the land owner as well as liability insurance for a couple hundred dollars. Brooks suggests that all hunters have liability insurance when putting together a lease. It makes the landowner feel good and doesn’t cost much money.

Some hunters prefer to buy land. If that is you, Brooks says you may want to lease land first. “We provide leases for many hunters who want to buy land in a certain area but they want to lease property in that area first to make sure it provides the hunting opportunities they desire before investing in land. If you are in the market for hunting land, maybe you should lease first,” Brooks suggested.

As you can see, a lot goes into a lease. Finding the right piece of property can be difficult whether you are looking for land within your town or eight hours away. This is why many hunters choose to hire a leasing agency like Base Camp Leasing. “We have a large network of landowners across the country. A hunter can call me and tell me what they are looking for and I can usually find it. I also take care of the contract and make sure all the I’s are dotted and the T’s are crossed,” Brooks added.

When you are considering whether you should bite the bullet and lease, realize there is strength in numbers. “Often the best way to lease is with a group of friends. Leasing a large chunk of land can be expensive but with a few friends involved, the work load gets shared, as does the financial burden,” Brooks explained. 

Most of us have no problem buying a new bow every couple years and a new pickup every few years. If you are looking to kill a monster buck, maybe it is time to break out the check book and lease land. 

If breaking out the checkbook isn’t in the cards, there is another option that requires elbow grease. “I have bartered with farmers. I sometimes offer to plant crops for a farmer in return for the right to hunt,” Danny Little from Redneck Blinds said. During the harvest season, farmers always need a helping hand. Over the years, I have encountered many hunters who help harvest crops, feed the livestock or mend the fence. I have fed cow calves in return for hunting rights. I know tradesmen like electricians and welders who have worked for a farmer for the right to hunt. Finding a farmer who will agree to this type of lease isn’t always easy but for those willing to knock on doors and spend some time working, if enough doors are knocked on, sooner or later a land owner will either sign a lease or allow a hard-working person the right to hunt.

At the end of the day, all of us who hunt must decide whether hunting is worth spending a lot of time or money on. In both cases, a serious commitment will be required. 

To learn more about Joe Brooks and Base Camp Leasing, check out www.basecampleasing.com. To contact Joe, email him at: joe@basecampleasing.com

There are a million different places online to get information about land management, food plots and deer hunting, but we thought we would put together a cheat sheet for everyone that will make finding high quality information easier. Below is a list of some of the best sites on the web for people who have never managed land or planted food plots and those who have years of experience.

The websites below will teach you about everything from the right type of seed to plant to have a lush green food plot to how to build buck beds and get rid of predators. 

Midwest Whitetails is a great place to learn about everything whitetail. Bill Winke owns and manages the website and has an online TV show that is all about whitetails. Winke lives on a large farm in Iowa and and teaches his viewers how to grow food plots and manage property. He also has staff members scattered across the Midwest so viewers can learn about what people in their neck of the woods are doing to manage deer and land. The Midwest Whitetail Show is extremely popular and so is Winke’s informative blog.

GrowingDeer.TV is also an online TV show. The host of the show is Dr. Grant Woods. Woods is considered by many to be one of the most knowledgeable deer biologists in the country. On his website, you can learn about whitetail management and lots of information about wild turkey management, predator management, food plots, hunting tactics and more. Woods has helped develop many food plot seed blends over the years and is a wealth of knowledge. Everyone who visits his website will learn something about wildlife and how to manage it.

Whitetail Institute is an innovator when it comes to food plots. Their seed blends are genetically designed for whitetails, not cattle or other animals. The other wonderful thing about this company is they are only a phone call away. If you can’t decide what type of seed to plant, they will help you determine the right one for you and the land you hunt.

Mossy Oak's GameKeepers is another great website and magazine. The magazine covers everything from planting food plots and fruit trees to making your property more attractive to deer, turkeys and waterfowl. The website and magazine covers upland bird management and pond management. The website and the magazine are a great resource for hardcore hunters.

BioLogic is a website for hardcore hunters considering food plots. BioLogic offers all kinds of different seed blends that attract deer, turkeys, upland game and waterfowl. They even offer products for the backyard fish pond.

Eagle Seed is a company largely known for their Roundup ready soybeans. They offer a few different soybean options, depending on what part of the country you live in. Their soybeans are known to be drought resistant and out produce other soybean varieties, which is important when planting them in areas with a high whitetail population.

The Noble Foundation is a website for the Samuel Roberts Noble Foundation. This foundation is an independent, non-profit institute headquartered in Ardmore, Oklahoma. Founded in 1945, the Noble Foundation conducts direct operations including assisting farmers and ranchers and conducting plant science research and agricultural programs, to enhance agricultural productivity regionally, nationally and internationally. Over the years, they have also conducted a fair amount of research on wildlife including deer. By clicking on this link, you can read about much of the research they have done on wildlife. The nice thing about the articles is they are all about research. They aren’t trying to sell you a certain seed blend.

Wired To Hunt is a great resource for the whitetail addicts out there. Wired To Hunt has a newsletter, a podcast and articles that focus on the whitetail deer. If you want to know all the latest and greatest news on whitetail deer, how to manage them and hunt them, check out this website.

The Quality Deer Management Association is largely responsible for getting hunters to band together with the goal of managing whitetails and the land they live on. The organization does a lot of research on deer and their habitat. You can learn about everything from does and fawns to predators and food plots on their website. Their forum is also a great resource.

Here at Redneck Hunting Blinds, we love contest giveaways. Sometimes we give away blinds; sometimes we give away chairs or feeders. Recently we gave away a guided turkey hunt. Pete Benetatos was the lucky hunter who won the hunt by participating in a Facebook hunt giveaway we did in conjunction with GrowingDeer TV.

Benetatos got to hunt with famed biologist, Dr. Grant Woods who knows a few things about whitetail management and turkey hunting. The hunt took place at Redneck Farms and from the moment the sun came up until the gun was fired, Benetatos was in the middle of turkeys. “There are a lot of turkeys on that farm,” said Benetatos. Watching all the turkeys chasing each other around and trying to figure out how to get a shot was fun.”

Pete, Grant and Adam, the camera man, climbed into the blind at 5:15 in the morning. “At one point, we had 17 jakes in front of the blind. We had jakes as close as three yards. We could have almost reached out and grabbed them by the neck. All three men were sitting inside a Redneck Bale Blind for the entire hunt. I was very impressed with the amount of room in a bale blind. We could sit comfortably and talk without feeling cramped,” Benetatos said.

The biggest problem was the jakes that kept the longbeards from approaching the blind. “With several jakes around, getting a shot was difficult. After spending several hours in the blind, we decided we had to do something if we wanted to kill a longbeard,” Benetatos said with a laugh. “So we started playing musical chairs. The longbeard was hanging around at about 70 yards out in the field and I started switching chairs with Grant and our camera man, Adam. I was trying to get into position to take a long shot, but we needed the bird to come a little closer.”

In Missouri, turkey hunters must stop hunting at 1 p.m. so Benetatos knew if they were going to kill a bird, he was going to have to take a long shot. “Luckily I was using Grant’s Winchester turkey gun which had a Nikon scope on it. We were using the Winchester Longbeard XR long range turkey load. The bird eventually made a few steps and I took a shot at 67 yards. It was the longest shot I have ever taken in the woods when turkey hunting. There is no way in heck I could have made the shot without having a scope on the gun,” Benetatos recalled.

The hunt was a huge success and so was the bird. “My tom had a 10-inch beard, a 1-5/8” spur and a 1-1/4” spur, so he was at least a 3-year-old bird and may have been older than that,” Benetatos said. “I had a great time hunting with Grant and Adam and I really enjoyed seeing the Redneck Factory and seeing where the blinds were made. The bale blinds and the tower blinds are amazing.”

The nice thing about this hunt is Benetatos will be able to relive the hunt as many times as he wants because it was all filmed for an episode on GrowingDeer TV. “It was fun being filmed for Grant’s show and learning from him,” Benetatos said. “There is no question he knows a lot about land management.”

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When you think of Texas, your mind may conjure images of wide-open spaces, rolling plains, and the allure of the Wild West. While all these elements are undoubtedly part of the Texan charm, there’s one region that offers something truly extraordinary—the Texas Hill Country. At Schmidt Double T Ranches, we don’t just provide world-class hunting... Read more »

The post Hunting and Beyond: Exploring the Texas Hill Country’s Natural Beauty appeared first on Schmidt Double T Ranches.

At Schmidt Double T Ranches, we have plenty of experience with the wild Rio Grande turkeys and it’s no secret that these birds are an elusive game to hunt. On our Texas turkey hunts, we’ve been able to figure out exactly what it takes to get a turkey tagged, and it starts with understanding turkey... Read more »

The post Perfecting Your Turkey Call for the Turkey Hunt appeared first on Schmidt Double T Ranches.

The turkey hunting season is upon us! We’re getting ready for the hunt, are you? We’ll see you at our ranch for the best turkey hunting in Texas. If not, it’s time to get your hunting gear in order and your camouflaged attire picked out; there are gobblers waiting to be tagged! Turkey Hunting Gear... Read more »

The post Essential Turkey Hunting Gear for the Next Hunt appeared first on Schmidt Double T Ranches.

Going quail hunting can be an incredibly fun and rewarding experience, especially when you plan a trip here in Texas. Of course, every quail hunter wants to have a successful trip, and it can be frustrating when you return home without hitting a single quail. That’s why we’re here to provide you with a few... Read more »

The post How to Successfully Hunt Quail appeared first on Schmidt Double T Ranches.

The rut is one of the most exciting times for hunters looking to score that big buck. However, it appears the excitement gets to some and they end up making a few obvious errors. Luckily, a hunter can learn from these mistakes and use their experiences to find success in their future hunts. Forgetting to... Read more »

The post Common Mistakes Hunters Make During the Rut appeared first on Schmidt Double T Ranches.

Dogs are some of the best companions when you’re on the hunt, especially those that were bred to track, retrieve, or expose game. However, even hunting breeds will need training before you bring them out in the field. Let’s look at the signs that your dog could be trained to be a hunting dog, regardless […]

The post Can I Train My Dog to be a Hunting Dog? appeared first on Whitetail and Exotic hunting ranch in North Texas.

Here in Texas, we aren’t too thrilled about our wild boar situation, but we have to admit that it has led to some excellent hunting! North Texas wild boar are a unique game hunting experience: techniques for tracking, approach, aiming, and takedown are all somewhat different from what you’re used to if deer, turkeys, and […]

The post North Texas Wild Boar Hunting Tips appeared first on Whitetail and Exotic hunting ranch in North Texas.

Texas has the largest wild hog population in the US. Feral hogs are an invasive species that breed quickly and pose a significant threat to natural crops and the Texas ecosystem. Because of the nuisance caused by wild hogs, hog hunting has been encouraged and grown into a quintessential Texas hunting experience. Whether you are […]

The post Spring Hog Hunting Tips for North Texas Hunters appeared first on Whitetail and Exotic hunting ranch in North Texas.

The grounds at Nine Bar Ranch offer our guests the chance to experience the best North Texas deer hunts of their lives. With over 12,000 acres of natural Texas beauty surrounding our authentic ranch, we combine traditional Texas hospitality with skilled game management to offer a genuinely authentic deer hunting experience. We host two seasons, […]

The post Nine Bar Ranch North Texas Deer Hunts: Detailed Info appeared first on Whitetail and Exotic hunting ranch in North Texas.

One of the things we love most about North Texas hunting is the availability of year-round game. If you are eager to get out and hunt this winter, Nine Bar Ranch is here to create the perfect hunting trip for you, your family, and your friends. Whether you’re looking to take a holiday trip or […]

The post North Texas Hunting: Game for Every Season appeared first on Whitetail and Exotic hunting ranch in North Texas.

Getting in Shape for Backcountry Hunting To succeed with today’s trophy bucks you need to start hunting where other hunters stop. The best hunters I know have no physical limits. They can get go anywhere the animals go, and then get the animal out after the shot. If you want to spend more time hunting … Continue reading Shaping Up for Bowhunting →

The post Shaping Up for Bowhunting appeared first on Zen Bowhunter Blog.

Turkey vs. Elk When I first started hunting turkeys, someone said they were very similar to elk. This sounded absurd considering the two animals are practically complete opposites. However, nine years later I have to admit that turkey behavior during the spring rut is very similar to elk behavior in the fall. What this means … Continue reading Turkey versus Elk Hunting: Similarities and Differences →

The post Turkey versus Elk Hunting: Similarities and Differences appeared first on Zen Bowhunter Blog.

Dominant Eye and Archery Occasionally I have a beginner student consistently missing wide of the bullseye. At first it appears they’re doing everything correctly, however it quickly becomes apparent that the person is aiming with the wrong eye. Even after pointing this out, he keeps shooting with the wrong eye, or the eye that’s farthest … Continue reading Eye Dominance in Archery →

The post Eye Dominance in Archery appeared first on Zen Bowhunter Blog.

Blood-Trailing Wounded Animals Sooner or later every bowhunter will have to deal with a poorly hit animal. An ethical hunter must do whatever it takes to follow-up and recover wounded game. Arrow-hit deer rarely go down immediately, so every hunter needs to understand the basics of  blood-trailing. In this article we’ll look at some tips … Continue reading How to Blood Trail Wounded Animals →

The post How to Blood Trail Wounded Animals appeared first on Zen Bowhunter Blog.

Extending Your Effective Range with Compound Bows Let’s say you’ve mastered the fundamentals of archery, but you’re stuck with an effective shooting range of 50 yards. Any farther and you begin to miss the 9-inch bullseye. At this point, how do you extend your range? Extending your effective range starts with shooting a flatter arrow … Continue reading Extending Your Effective Range →

The post Extending Your Effective Range appeared first on Zen Bowhunter Blog.

An awesome Sitka blacktail buck. Story & Photos by Nigel Fox Kodiak is by far my favorite of all the places I have hunted in Alaska, as well as being one of the most frustrating places to hunt. The Sitka black-tailed deer and mountain goat hunting is top-notch and if you are Read More...

The post The Trials and Tribulations of Hunting Kodiak—the Struggle Is Real! appeared first on Hunt Alaska Magazine.

Fall hunting gear to effectively get the job done. This selection of gear is recommended by the Editors at Hunt Alaska magazine and covers everything from guns, ammunition and sights to the all terrain vehicles to get you where you're going and more. Black Hills Ammunition 6.5 PRC 143 Gr. ELD-X black-hills.com Think Read More...

The post Fall Hunting Gear appeared first on Hunt Alaska Magazine.

Blacktail Deer Soft Tacos By Marcus Weiner Recipe Yield: 8 Tacos This recipe is a favorite in my house. My twin 8-year-old boys call them “Garden Tacos” which references the pico de gallo I make from the garden in the summer. I usually cook a couple pounds of taco meat at a time and Read More...

The post Blacktail Deer Soft Tacos appeared first on Hunt Alaska Magazine.

The hunting gear featured in the Spring 2023 Gear Shop covers all of your hunting needs and wants; ammunition, holsters, apparel and more.   Black Hills Ammunition 10mm HoneyBadger Hunting Ammunition black-hills.com Black Hills Ammunition's 10mm HoneyBadger bullet has deep flutes designed for optimum terminal performance without reliance on hollow points. The bullet Read More...

The post Spring 2023 Gear Shop appeared first on Hunt Alaska Magazine.

By Marcus Weiner This Venison Shepherd's Pie is easy to make in advance, is full of savory flavor and allows you to incorporate some vegetables in an unobtrusive manner, which can help when you are trying to get your kids to eat veggies. Plus, for those who don’t love the taste of venison all Read More...

The post Venison Shepherd’s Pie appeared first on Hunt Alaska Magazine.

Winter of 2023 is a LONG one! Most are itching to get out, longing for spring. We are thinking about camping, fishing, hiking, and hunting. Winter has been a drag on physical and mental capacities.

Maybe you are dreaming of getting away from electronics and crowds and going hunting, and hunting season is a lifetime away. But is it? What about an Idaho Spring Bear Drop Camp??? It’s as close as a few weeks away, not months! How about a horseback ride to be dropped in a fully set up camp deep in the wilderness? A camp surrounded by beauty with a dry canvas tent, warm wood stove, cots, pads, cook stove, dishes, and pre-set bear baits! Complete with no cell service, no electronics, or any people in sight for a week or even two!

You can spend your days exploring and fishing, spot and stalking for predators – coyotes, mountain lions, wolves, and bear. In the evenings you can hunt a bear bait. You’ll be surrounded by mountains, big skies, flowers bursting forth, and wildlife, including deer, elk, and moose. At night you can see stars like you’ll experience in few other places. There is certainly no light pollution! You can not only see the milky way (80% of Americans are unable to see the Milky Way Galaxy from where they live) but also zillions of stars and so many constellations you'll want to brush up on them before you arrive! You'll experience the subliminal relaxing scent of the pines as well as the calming sight and sound of campfires and rushing creeks.

You can fully slip into what we affectionately call “Mountain Time”! Idaho Spring Bear in a drop camp means you have no timelines! You can sleep in, eat breakfast at noon, hunt until 10pm, stare into the stars and/or the fire until 2 in the morning! Or you can leave before daylight and climb an open ridge, scan the country fervently with your optics and put the stalk on a predator. Our area is loaded with color phase bears, beautiful blondes, cinnamons, chocolates, and inky blacks with chevrons. Our area is not easy but rewardingly rugged - well worth the time and effort.

So, despair no more! Winter is a week away from being over! Spring is here! Get out of the office, get off the couch! Make plans to get out in the woods sooner than later! You can hunt now AND this fall! Lose yourself for a week or more with no one telling you what to do, no hustle, no bustle. Listen to a silence so big it’ll make you feel insignificant. Your only limitation will be yourself!

Pretty pink, pretty blue, purple, orange, yellow, tan, chocolate, etc. does it really matter what the name is for bears to like it? The answer is obviously a resounding NO! If it is full of sugar and by default calories, bears are gonna love it and you will have success with this or almost anything edible as bear bait. The main questions in my mind are A) can I get enough of it in a consistent supply, B) can I even afford to feed it to bears and C) how do I keep from producing world record sized squirrels on my Granola, Trail mix, Honey Roasted Nut formula I am currently using?

We believe we have the answer to all three questions. We have icings in stock, usually year-round (remember we can bait for fall bears too and Idaho has many square miles of 2 bear areas) and we are priced far below the competition at only $.20 cents per pound.

I am a proponent of the idea that it does not matter what you feed the bears. The secret is getting the bears to find your bait and then to never let it run out. If your bait site runs out, you are back to square one in trying to entice a bear into your bait.

So, save as much as you can on the actual bear bait and invest some money in some quality scent attractants. Bears are like any other free-loading scavenger, they are going to eat whatever free lunch is out there for them to enjoy, they just gotta find it.

So, if you don’t like paying $1000 dollars per ton for bear bait or feeding squirrels all the nuts in your bear bait barrel, contact us to try some “Pretty Orange Glow Blueberry Mauve Buttercream Organic Slow Roasted Chocolate Mint Chip Ready to Use Icing” or some derivative of that and see how affordable and effective our bear bait is!

Happy Hunting!

See more info at www.BearBaitingSupplies.com where we also sell scent attractants!

With Idaho’s 2022 spring bear season beginning in just a few short weeks, we are grateful that we are almost fully booked for our guided hunts, but we still have availability for spring drop camps for those DIY hunters who prefer the challenge of hunting on their own and more of the spot and stalk element of bear hunting.

This is a more affordable option over a guided hunt, puts you in charge of your own schedule and may just be the ticket for that pent up wintertime cabin fever!

We will pack you into a back country camp, drop you off, show you a couple of pre-baited sites you can sit in the evenings and leave you to your own hunting experience. We will then come pick you up at a predetermined time and hope to hear tall tales of faraway places and hopefully be able to congratulate on a well-placed shot on an Idaho bear!

Contact us now for more info on this option from Wild Idaho Outfitters and Castle Creek Outfitters.

Best of luck with your spring bear hunt this year and remember to get out and enjoy YOUR public lands!

As the girls rode the livestock out on their final ride of the season, heading for greener pastures at lower elevation and a winter rest, we couldn’t help but reminisce on how fast the last 3 months have gone and how grateful we are for what we get to do, the country we get to do it in, and especially for the people we get to meet.

To everyone who hunted with us this year we want to offer you a sincere THANK YOU! And we wish you a Happy Thanksgiving!

As you gather with family and friends over this long holiday weekend, we hope that you can look back on your time in Idaho with fondness!

Until our path’s cross again, happy trails and…

Happy Thanksgiving!

George

With the days beginning to warm a bit and spring bear season just days away, it is time to ramp up our spring bear prep and get moving a bit faster.

Horses need shod, bear bait moved to the backcountry, camps prepped, and wood socked in for the upcoming official opener of Idaho’s 2021 spring bear season.

Although we have been in backcountry often this spring with Mountain Lion hunts and wolf trapping, it seems it takes a bit of the snow melting and warmer days to really “light a fire” and boy has it been lit!

Kelly is prepping Darling Creek colts to pack bait, the phone keeps ringing with bear bait sales and our calendar is full of hunters coming in for a new Idaho spring bear season in “the Frank”. We look forward to it every year, but this year seems extra special with the world having been so cooped up for the past year, this spring just seems a little brighter and we are looking forward to meeting our new guests while we welcome our returning hunters!

Here is to a successful spring bear season! Whether you are hunting with us, another outfitter or doing your own DIY bear hunt get out and enjoy YOUR public lands!

See you in the woods!

To say this year has been unique would certainly be an understatement. But has it really? It has had some unique “2020” behavior patterns for sure, but mankind facing adversity and having to deal with it is far from “unprecedented’.

Mankind has been facing trials and tribulations since the beginning of recorded human history.

All of us at Wild Idaho Outfitters and Castle Creek Outfitters, as we look to the end of this year and look ahead to the next, want to send a sincere THANKS to those of you who hunted in Idaho with us in 2020 and to those who are already making plans for next year, and we wish you the happiest of holiday seasons.

Love strong, laugh big, and hug those you love because, as we have all been taught, we are not promised tomorrow!

Merry Christmas from Idaho!

George

Man, I hate technology! Okay, I do appreciate my heated seats and steering wheel in the Ram pickup when the temps reach single digits, but it sure is frustrating when you have been on the mountain for 3 months and finally make it home only to find out your email server has been down for the last week and there is no remedy in sight.

That is what we came home to after we pulled our last camp this fall. The server evidently was damaged on a multiple countrywide spectrum, so the good news is they were not just picking on us. The bad news is that we were not up and running until Thanksgiving after almost 2 weeks of being down and some of November’s emails may be lost forever.

Hence the reason for the late Happy Thanksgiving wishes. We do hope you got to share the long weekend with friends and family and despite the “warnings” of impending disaster, that you hugged deeply and laughed out loud with those you love and appreciate in your lives!

We are incredibly grateful to all those who made the journey to Idaho, hunted with us this past year, and shared some of their time with us. It is always a pleasure to see old friends and to make new ones.

People are truly the reason we do what we do and love what we do!

As one major Holiday has passed and we head into the largest Holiday time of the year, we hope that your time with family and friends is truly blessed and that you know our lives are, because of those of you that have come into our lives! We are sincerely grateful our paths have crossed with yours!

I guess that we get to tell you that in a quick email makes technology not such a bad idea after all!

Happy late Thanksgiving!

George & the crew

I had an exceedingly refreshing hunting experience this past spring-bear season. In camp we had 2 youths; one was a 12-year-old boy, Austin, who was hunting with his father, the other was my 18-year-old daughter, Suzy, who was our camp cook. It was the first big game hunt of any kind for Austin, whose father acted as the mentor of the hunt—teaching and advising his son on everything from nature to firearms to camp etiquette.

This spring was Suzy’s first experience with hunting, too. Suzy grew up in Eastern Bolivia where girls don’t hunt, though wild game meat is a large part of the rural population’s diet and she had eaten quite a variety of it growing up. Since this year is Suzy’s first time to the United States, these are her first impressions. At the start of bear season, Suzy had little interest in hunting, and she could not comprehend the concept of hunting for sport. Why would anyone travel far and spend money to hunt when they already had plenty to eat?

The one other person in camp was an experienced big game hunter who had already taken several color phase bears and was specifically after a cinnamon bear on this trip. He shot one on the first evening. Suzy, Austin, and his father accompanied the hunter and I the morning after the bear was taken to skin it out in the woods. The walk there was quite exhilarating as we had to cross a raging stream on a fallen log to reach the bait site. This would be the first time Suzy had ever seen a bear. She was in awe with the bear’s beauty and thrilled with the overall experience. In the following days, she started paying more attention to the father and son, and noticed they were having fun together outside and by being challenged by the elements. On the 4th evening Austin shot a black boar which was larger than the other hunter’s cinnamon bear. Suzy now saw how the competition and challenge for bigger bears and different colors of bears played into the scheme of sport hunting—and she liked it—along with the camaraderie.

Competition, challenge, and camaraderie are as natural to the human condition as eating meat. I had been teaching Suzy how handle handguns for personal defense, but now she wants a rifle so she can go bear hunting with her dad, too. I’ll be working on that shortly.

Congratulations to Suzy and Austin for everything they learned! It was so much more than a bear hunt.

Good hunting,

Joe Cavanaugh

The application deadline to apply for elk, deer, and pronghorn controlled hunts in Idaho is June 5th. Idaho does not use a bonus/preference point system for controlled hunts, so you have the same chance at drawing a tag as anyone else. All residents and nonresidents need to apply is a general hunting license and pay an application fee of $6.25 for residents and $14.75 for nonresidents, per species. The cost of the tag is not paid for until after you have drawn, which is a pretty fair deal compared to some of the other Western states that make you pay everything up front. If successful you will be notified by July 10, and the tag must be purchased by August 1.

Wild Idaho Outfitters operates in Frank Church Wilderness Unit 27, which offers a late-season, unlimited controlled hunt for mule deer during the rut (Hunt 1017). This hunt runs November 1 – 18, and offers outstanding opportunity for large, mature bucks in the Middle Fork Salmon drainage. Nonresident tags are limited to 51 tags for this hunt however, so it’s not truly unlimited for them. Hunters may only apply for these tags as their first choice and during the first controlled-hunt, application period. Wild Idaho Outfitters receives outfitter allocation tags for the same hunt, but they are in short supply due to high demand. There are no controlled-hunt elk tags for Unit 27, as they are sold over the counter. There are still plenty of these elk tags left. The OTC deer season in Unit 27 runs from September 15 to October 31—a full 6 weeks.

For detailed information and statistics on Idaho controlled hunts click on this link: https://idfg.idaho.gov/rules/big-game

Good hunting,

Joe Cavanaugh

We’re back on track again for spring bear. As of May 16, 2020, Idaho hunting licenses, tags, and permits will be available to buy online, at retail vendors, or by calling (800) 554-8685.

A temporary suspension of some nonresident licenses, permits, and tags sales had been imposed by the Idaho Fish & Game Commission the first week of April, due to COVID-19. This mostly affected tags for black bear, cougar, and gray wolf. The 14-day self-quarantine for people entering Idaho has also been relaxed by the governor. So, if you want to hunt spring bear in Idaho this year, you can now purchase a hunting license and tags, as well as stay in hotels and eat in restaurants here.

For more information on licenses, tags and seasons, see:

https://idfg.idaho.gov/press/fg-will-resume-sales-nonresident-licenses-tags-and-permits-10-am-may-16

Good hunting,

Joe Cavanaugh

Today we hunt with a US Army Veteran and hunter passionate about the high-mountain game. We are in Gredos, home of which for me is probably the most beautiful ibex in the world. The objective is to hunt a huge Gredos ibex. We start the morning climbing these incredible mountains from which you quickly [...]

La entrada The shepherd’s Gredos Ibex se publicó primero en Iberhunting.

We are in the last days of the hunting season, with high temperatures and long days. After more than a week of traveling around Spain, our hunter Mr. Koch is in southern Spain, looking for his Southeastern ibex (Sierra Nevada ibex) to complete his Grand Slam. LOOKING FOR IBEX On the first morning, we [...]

La entrada A great way to finish a Grand Slam! se publicó primero en Iberhunting.

I've always been a man who loves mountain hunting, the harder the better. But Africa was not my thing. I was unwilling to hunt in Africa at such a young age. This trip was something I had planned for the future. However, I was mistaken. I had paid too much attention to other people's comments. [...]

La entrada Bushbuck hunting, the best hunt of my life se publicó primero en Iberhunting.

This new hunt begins after getting the Ronda Ibex in Spain. We traveled to our hunting area to hunt this time the Sierra Nevada Ibex or Southeastern Ibex. Just arrived we saw a group of Ibex moving, but nothing interesting. We started the hunt in the lower parts of the area since it was the [...]

La entrada The huge Sierra Nevada Ibex of the cave se publicó primero en Iberhunting.

Visit us at Denmark's largest hunting fair, Jagt & Outdoor, from April 1-3, 2022 at Odense Congress Center. You will experience three fantastic days of talks, trophies, and lots of exciting activities for both kids and adults. Experience a one-of-a-kind event setting completely new standards for the hunting and outdoor world. New surprises at [...]

La entrada Visit us at booth A-1901 at the Jagt & Outdoor fair in Denmark se publicó primero en Iberhunting.

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The post Moose Hunting Safety: A Comprehensive Guide appeared first on Hunting heart.

Whitetail deer Did you know that whitetail deer eat pumpkins? These deer are a common sight in woods and forests, and they are classified as herbivores. Their diets depend on their habitat, but they will …

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The post Do Deer Eat Pumpkins? appeared first on Hunting heart.

Not sure which type of ammo is best suited for your hunt? We know some are more effective than others – even though all patterns are designed to enable hunters to blend into their surroundings. …

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Missouri offers youth fantastic opportunities to go after a variety of wildlife. However, you must be conversant with Missouri youth hunting regulations if you’re looking to engage in one of the oldest pastimes in the …

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Alaska’s most savage predator is prolific throughout the state. Pursuing them makes for exhilarating and is also part of a sound management strategy. But can you hunt wolves in Alaska legally? The state of Alaska …

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The post Can You Hunt Wolves in Alaska? appeared first on Hunting heart.

As a hunter, when preparing for a hunt and I will always have a sharp knife in my kit. Normally, more than one, but one main knife for the majority of the tasks required. For a year, I have been testing the Case® x Winkler Knives® Recurve Utility No. 6…

The post Knife Review: Case® x Winkler Knives® Recurve Utility No. 6 appeared first on The SoCal Bowhunter Blog -.

We hunters tend to love sharp things, especially knives. Personally, I am a sucker for arrows, broadheads and knives. Specifically fixed-blade hunting knives. Last year, I began working on a project where I wanted to test my skills with a fixed-blade knife for hunting use and for bushcrafting. So, for…

The post Knife Review: Shay Butler Knives Intrepid appeared first on The SoCal Bowhunter Blog -.

Finding quality animals to hunt is a challenge hunters thrive on. I love the anticipation of seeing what animals made it through the season and what new animals have appeared. With the development of new technology, cellular trail cameras are an impressive tool that have much to offer. It took…

The post SPYPOINT FLEX Cellular Camera – Field Test Results and Full Gear Review appeared first on The SoCal Bowhunter Blog -.

Recently, some Christian men, who also happen to be avid bowhunters, received an invitation to travel to Nashville, TN to participate in a 3D archery event and do a little recon for a future HHAUSA archery shoot. Chris Hamm co-owner of HHA Sports and founder of HHAUSA; Chad Stillman, retired…

The post Country Music, 3D Archery and Divine Intervention Resonate Strong in Nashville appeared first on The SoCal Bowhunter Blog -.

We may have had a saddle hunting seminar, too. The Saturday morning wake-up call for HHAUSA Mission 20 was a bit earlier than my body wanted, but we had coffee. Yes, that glorious, steaming, brown elixir. Chris and I first visited Manderfield’s Home Bakery for some fresh made buns for…

The post Archers Assemble for HHAUSA Archery Event and Grant Presentation appeared first on The SoCal Bowhunter Blog -.

In this open letter to hunters as the 2023 season kicks off, Chad Stewart, deer management specialist with the Michigan DNR, writes: …”the typical Michigan hunting philosophy to date is to hold off on taking antlerless deer until later in the season.” While there are exceptions to this way of thinking, that is the predominant [...]

The post Why You Should Shoot a Doe Early in Bow Season appeared first on Big Deer.

Over the past 40 years I’ve spent more than 1,000 days in deer stands across North America during the magic month of November, during every imaginable moon phase, during all the waxing and waning days. Though many scientists don’t put much stock in the moon and its effects on whitetails and the rut, my journal [...]

The post Big Deer’s 2023 Moon-Rut Hunting Guide appeared first on Big Deer.

You scout and glass a couple of small bucks, a decent 8-pointer and a shooter 10 coming to a bean field like clockwork in the evenings. Will those bucks, and especially the 10-point, be around when bow season opens in a few weeks?   That bachelor’s club will start to break up in mid-September, but [...]

The post Early-Season Whitetail Q&A for Bowhunters appeared first on Big Deer.

For years now, hunters have ben shooting some huge whitetail bucks in small to tiny tracts of land in cities and suburbs where bowhunting is permitted. In Connecticut, northern Virginia, outside New York city, even out in Missoula, Montana. Kevin Robinson is one of those hunters, and he’s killed all these bucks in the suburbs of [...]

The post Bowhunting Tactics for the Suburbs appeared first on Big Deer.

My friend Wren from down in Texas sent me this photo and said, “Looks like we have another unicorn buck on the ranch!” Look close in the middle of the deer’s forehead and you’ll see it. You might ask, “Is possible a tine can grow out the middle of a buck’s forehead like that? How [...]

The post Texas Unicorn Velvet Buck appeared first on Big Deer.

Show me a bowhunter that enjoys missing and I’ll show you a liar. Especially after so much effort, it is crushing to watch your arrow sail harmlessly passed an animal. It’s damn near debilitating mentally. While there is no shortage of suck that comes from missing, I will say that there is a lot to […]

The post Missing Sucks – The Bowhunting Aftermath appeared first on Dialed In Hunter.

We’re sitting less than a month out from the 2023 Fall hunting season at the time of writing this. Along with my uncontrollable excitement, e-scouting, and focus on fitness, there is one other thing heavy on my mind. That thing is accuracy. To me, it doesn’t matter how fancy your bow is, it doesn’t matter […]

The post Accuracy Killers in Bowhunting – These 3 Things Helped Me Shooter Better appeared first on Dialed In Hunter.

Since I was a child, doing difficult things has been something I’ve been drawn to. There is a beauty to it. It’s challenging and keeps one on their toes. Should you come out successful, no matter what that difficult thing is, the reward is so much greater. It means “the most” to struggle and then […]

The post New Film Teaser – The Most – Bear Hunting in Idaho appeared first on Dialed In Hunter.

We were so stoked. After months of planning, we were finally loading up our backpacks at the truck, getting ready to hike a few miles in for an archery deer hunt. It was my buddy’s first backpack hunt ever, and I couldn’t wait to show him the ropes. About 5 minutes into our hike, I […]

The post What Makes a Good Bow Sight? appeared first on Dialed In Hunter.

Bow season is something that I look forward to literally every single day of the year. I fell in love with archery hunting many years ago and it was for several reasons. Some of them are the sheer difficulty involved, intimate encounters with animals, and honestly just the act of shooting a bow and arrow. […]

The post The Road to Bow Season appeared first on Dialed In Hunter.

Game and Fish is considering postponing the May 1 shed season this year. Winter conditions in Wyoming are unlike anything we’ve seen in 30 years and big game animals are struggling. Winter has lasted a long time and most of the state has well over 100% of objectives when it comes to snowpack. Jackson is …

The post Wyoming May Postpone Shed Season appeared first on Eastmans' Official Blog | Mule Deer, Antelope, Elk Hunting and Bowhunting Magazine | Eastmans' Hunting Journals.

Across much of the western portions of the Colorado Rockies, and especially the northwest corner of Colorado, this winter’s snowfall is significantly above average … and winter isn’t over yet. The National Weather Service’s Maybell weather station has recorded over 80 inches of snow for the area and it’s just as bad, and in many …

The post Wicked Colorado Winter & Tag Reductions appeared first on Eastmans' Official Blog | Mule Deer, Antelope, Elk Hunting and Bowhunting Magazine | Eastmans' Hunting Journals.

HPAI H5N1 better known as the Eurasian Avian Flu, was first reported in California in July, 2022. The disease is mostly impacting birds but can be transferred to carnivorous animals when the infected bird is ingested. To date, this virus has been found in 45 of the 58 counties in California. In December, 2022 and …

The post Avian Flu In California Mountain Lions appeared first on Eastmans' Official Blog | Mule Deer, Antelope, Elk Hunting and Bowhunting Magazine | Eastmans' Hunting Journals.

Another day, another snow storm. Unless you are pushing the envelope on 80 years on this rock then this winter will probably be the worst you’ve ever seen in Wyoming. The winter conditions in the Cowboy State and others have gone from bad to worse, and now possibly even to the level of catastrophic.  A …

The post Wyoming Winter Devastation appeared first on Eastmans' Official Blog | Mule Deer, Antelope, Elk Hunting and Bowhunting Magazine | Eastmans' Hunting Journals.

As Colorado nears the actual implementation of its fairy-tale wolf “reintroduction” plan, some inconvenient and ugly realities of plunging the large predator back into the mix of modern society are taking center stage. First, it seems that wolves harbor severe contempt for domestic dogs and they don’t discriminate whether the dog or dogs in question …

The post Colorado Wolves: Killing Pets & A Safe-Space appeared first on Eastmans' Official Blog | Mule Deer, Antelope, Elk Hunting and Bowhunting Magazine | Eastmans' Hunting Journals.

In order to be successful time and time again year after year, I learned a number of things that I should focus on doing and I also learned a number of things that I should entirely avoid. Let’s break down what we should try and avoid if we want to be more productive while bear hunting.

Early Archery season 2022 came and went just as quickly as it does every year. This year was a marathon; Only this time instead of finishing the race with a victory we found ourselves restarting. Shaking off the feeling of Read more…

Writing hasn’t been on my priority list for some time now. The last couple years enduring all of the sh*t has left me to re-evaluate some things. One of those things being how to categorize my priorities depending on importance. Read more…

When most people think of the month of September they think of leaves changing colours, cooler temperatures, hoodies, and pumpkin spice lattes. Not this guy, when I think of September I think of bugling bulls and that’s it! Now during Read more…

You’ve done it, you have completed your C.O.R. E or whichever hunting course you have available to you in your province/state now you are officially ready to begin hunting. But wait a minute you didn’t just want to become any Read more…

ATVs and UTVs have been a game changer for hunters. We can go deeper and hunt longer with these fantastic

The post Rev Up Your Hunt: ATV vs. UTV – Which is the Ultimate Choice for Hunters? appeared first on HuntTested.

If you’re like most hunters and campers, you’ve probably had your share of camp stoves. If you need a fast,

The post Camp Stove Review: The Jetboil Flash appeared first on HuntTested.

Quick access to drinking water is critical to any outdoor activity. I generally loathe single-use plastic water bottles, so I’ve

The post Featured Gear: Keith Titanium Canteen Mess Kit appeared first on HuntTested.

Hunters have been sitting around campfires for as long as there have been hunters. It’s in our DNA to sit

The post Breeo Y Series Portable Fire Pit – Review appeared first on HuntTested.

An Arizona Late-season Elk Hunt After four years of waiting, my credit card got hit once again for a late-season […]

The post No Time Wasted appeared first on Western Hunter.

Backpack elk hunts are tough, so pick your battles wisely I’m a sucker for a good view. Consequently, I often […]

The post Tough Terrain Bulls appeared first on Western Hunter.

When it comes to preparing for a backcountry hunt, there are two camps of people; one camp throws a pack […]

The post Hard Yards Performance appeared first on Western Hunter.

When it comes to late-season big game and winter predator hunting, I have tried everything to stay warm and dry […]

The post Stone Glacier M7 Pant appeared first on Western Hunter.

"Even if you get your bow initially set up by an archery pro shop, having the ability to work on your own bow and arrow after the initial setup is very important..."

The post DIY Bow and Arrow Tuning appeared first on Western Hunter.

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The late season is cold, very cold. Yes we get cold spells in the middle of November but nothing bites like that post-Christmas north wind.

There are things that you can do to help cut the chill. Granted, being some level of cold just comes with the territory of late season hunting.

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I graduated, got a job, saved some money, and did some research on how to get one of these western tags. Through online study and guidance from some relatives that lived in Eastern New Mexico I was able to put a plan together for this mule deer trip. The hunt itself was amazing and fairly difficult to pull off but it was the pure logistics that made the hunt almost not happen.

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 If I had to make a guess, your stand went from hanging on a tree to hanging on a nail beat into your basement drywall. But, hey, at least it's off the tree, and that's the first step!

In all seriousness, regularly inspecting your whole treestand rig is an important task that shouldn't be overlooked

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Denali on a clear day!

It’s not too late to plan a summer adventure in Alaska. Now is the ideal time to visit the Last Frontier and experience fishing for species like salmon and halibut. 

Based on a recent Caribou Gear trip to Alaska, we thought we’d provide a review and some ideas for planning your own Alaska fishing adventure. 

Captain Gabe Linegar and Crew

THIS YEAR OR NEXT

Whether it’s fishing or hunting, one of the keys to planning a successful trip to Alaska is to plan early. With spring into summer salmon runs and great halibut fishing, June, and July in Alaska is no secret, but let's not forget fall silver runs. Everything from hotels to fishing guides will book up quickly. So start your planning as soon as possible. 

Alaska hunters you're already here!  September is still good fishing for silvers, so before you head home plan a DIY, or book a guided fishing trip. 

The main items you’ll want to check off your list first include airfare, hotels, rental car and fishing charters or guides.

When we visited Alaska, one of the biggest pinch points was finding a rental car. Since COVID, many rental car companies have reduced their fleets. But with so many people seeking outdoor recreation, the fishing season in Alaska was still as busy as ever. This meant that rental cars were in high demand, but still available.  

Your hotel stays and your rental car dates will largely depend on where you’ll be fishing. So assuming you’d like to charter a halibut boat or book a river float trip for salmon, we’d recommend starting with those services and book them as soon as possible. From there, you can work backward through your trip itinerary, lining up hotel rooms, transportation and airfare.

GETTING THERE AND GETTING AROUND

For a great Alaska fishing adventure, we’d recommend flying into Anchorage and starting your trip from there. Airfare from hubs in the lower 48 is relatively reasonable. And from Anchorage, you can easily access some outstanding fishing locations. 

We rented a car in Anchorage, and drove from there out to Homer and Kachemak Bay. This scenic drive can take between four and five hours and is a great way to experience this part of Alaska. 

We highly recommend a rental car for getting around because it allows you to make stops, take side-trips and generally be on your own schedule. There are buses and tours available – but being on your own agenda and timetable adds a lot of freedom to the trip. On the trip down to Homer from Anchorage, Seward is a worthwhile detour, for example. In Homer, be sure to check out the Salty Dawg Saloon, where dollar bills cover every inch of the walls and ceilings. 

LODGING OPTIONS

Lodging options for an Alaska fishing trip can range from hotels, to cabins, VRBO rentals and even campgrounds. When you book your fishing charter or guide services, try asking them if they have recommendations in the area. Additionally, do your own research to find an ideal spot based on your budget and expectations for the trip.

For example, if you’re trying to do the trip on a shoestring budget, something like a KOA campground might be the ticket. If you’re traveling with a group of friends or family, renting a VRBO house might be the best option. Or if you’re hoping for a relaxing stay and a comfortable bed after a long day of fishing, there are some good hotels to choose from.

Whatever you decide, book it early! This will help you secure the best possible price for your stay. When hotels only have a few rooms left, they tend to increase the prices for the remaining rooms. By the time fishing season in Alaska is approaching, hotels and other accommodations can get very expensive.

DIY HUNTING?

I was offered a chance to hunt a nuisance black bear.  GOT EM! 

Sharon with a fine cod. In fact she ended up catching more and bigger fish on this trip, but the king below was mine!  

THE FISHING

The highlight of our fishing trip was open ocean fishing for halibut. On that trip, we saw humpback whales, killer whales, walrus, seals, otters and more. Plus, we came home with some excellent Alaskan halibut.

We did our fishing with Alaska Ocean Pros, operated by Captain Gabe Linegar and fabulous crew. We fished off their boat called the Casino, a smooth fast catamaran boat.  What an outstanding experience!  Depending on the time of year and the type of fishing you’re interested in, there are also opportunities to fish for cod, rockfish and other ocean species. Just so you know we bought all of the above. Caption Gabe and crew were very helpful, entertaining and simply made sure everyone caught fish!   

In addition to fishing trips, Alaska Ocean Pros offers self-guided black bear hunts, providing the boat, on-board lodging and meals for the trip. These hunts can be combined with halibut fishing, making it an ultimate spring adventure in Alaska. 

DIY Fishing 

DIY: My good friend Louis Cusack and I.
We caught our fair share of sockeye, a little walk from the crowd. 

There are also opportunities to fish the area’s rivers for spring run salmon. In fact, DIY anglers can find excellent fishing for sockeye salmon this time of year. If you do any DIY fishing, make sure you know the exact regulations – regulations are different on every river and in each location. 

For example, the Russian River is a great place to find DIY salmon fishing. But fishing is only allowed on one side of the river (the side opposite the highway). So anglers must take a ferry across the river before they are allowed to fish. Finding places to fish and learning these regulations can take some legwork. But anglers who do that work, learn what fishing techniques to use, and make appropriate plans, can be rewarded with some excellent DIY salmon fishing. 

It can get a little crowded

Here's a tip: go to the nearest tackle shop and ask what flossing is, or better yet ask what flys are best for flossing. Be sure to buy split shot line weights. After you have your tackle and fish stringer go to the river and observe. You'll be looking for the rig set ups and fishing technique of the locals. Ask questions as many will be happy to help Alaska's newcomer or greenhorn, called a "Cheechako".
Last but not least, when you hook up, you better hang on!!!

For more information about the Russian River Ferry          

Russian River Ferry at Sportsman's Landing
This is a must for a DIY great time!   

Guided Salmon Fishing

Alternatively, there are excellent opportunities to hire a guide service for float trips down wild and scenic Alaska Rivers. Depending on the river and the time of year, this can open opportunities to fishing for king salmon and more. Like everything else, if you wish to do some guided salmon fishing, book those services as early as possible to secure the best dates, locations and guides. 

Getting Your Fish Home 

With most charters and guided fishing services, they will offer options to process your fish. Once your fish are filleted, there are many local places to take your fish to have them flash frozen into vaccum-sealed bags. 

We took our halibut to a local processor, where they flash froze and vacuum-sealed them for us. From there, we purchased a fish box, and shipped it back home. In Alaska, this is an everyday thing and not at all difficult or complicated. No matter where you’re fishing, there are options for getting your fish home. If you’re not sure where to begin, ask your guide service for recommendations. Or, you can always ask for recommendations at your hotel or inquire with local businesses.

BOOK YOUR NEXT ADVENTURE
CONTACT ALASKA OCEAN PROS 

Ready to plan your Alaska fishing adventure? Don’t wait! Now is the time to line up the logistics for a trip during the peak fishing season. If you have questions, please feel free to contact the great folks at Alaska Ocean Pros. If you need gear for this adventure or any of your upcoming trips, check out our gear right here at  CaribouGear.com. Right off the top we recommend our Koyukon Duffel Bags and rain poncho (did we mention it rains a lot!) We’d be happy to help you pick out the right items for your next fishing or hunting trip.

Homer Harbor D23, Homer Alaska 99603
Phone 907-299-7498

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Which game bags should you use for different big game species? Here is a simple guide to our Caribou Gear game bags, listed by species.

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If you’re like me and you’re not too fond of this end of summer heat… your mind starts to wonder to those frost ridden mornings of October and November of the past. With only a few days to go before the archery season opens, you begin to finalize your October game plan. Maybe you already

The post Late September Whitetail Scouting Update appeared first on Heartland Lodge.

Wingshooting is one of the most time-honored traditions, linking like-minded people from coast to coast together by fine pointing dogs and fine guns. Since the birth of the United States, the chase of upland game was done for necessity, sport, and excitement. Hunting preserves, like the Orvis, endorsed Harpole’s Heartland Lodge, seek to keep these

The post Hunting Preserve in Illinois-Orvis Endorsed appeared first on Heartland Lodge.

Start your next family holiday tradition this season at Heartland Lodge! This year we are offering our “Family Holiday Upland/ Waterfowl Combo Hunt Package”! There’s no better way to experience a Midwestern Thanksgiving, Christmas or New Year’s than at the lodge! Bring home delicious upland game and waterfowl to your next family holiday get-together. I

The post Family Holiday Upland Hunting Package appeared first on Heartland Lodge.

Heartland Lodge offers the best all-inclusive deer hunting vacation packages available throughout the Midwest. We offer 100% free range deer hunts that includes everything a hunter needs to make a great deer hunting trip. Our deer hunting vacation packages include all the meals, 5-star lodging, and transportation to and from the hunter’s stand. Coming to

The post All Inclusive Deer Hunting Vacation Packages appeared first on Heartland Lodge.

Rifle Hunting in Illinois Deer Hunting Laws Whitetail hunters across the state of Illinois will soon be able to use rifles for deer hunting (**starting the fall of 2023**). The new rifle hunting laws in Illinois allow for a “single” shot or a rifle with the ability to only hold one shell and no other

The post Rifle Hunting in Illinois appeared first on Heartland Lodge.

Getting your start in any new endeavor can be tough, but being a beginner in archery and bowhunting might be the most difficult pursuit out there. As someone who grew up in this world, I often take it for granted when tasked with teaching someone new. There’s a lot to learn, and even more mistakes to be made.

To help guide you on your path, we’ve compiled a list of the most common mistakes that beginner archers will usually make. If you can do your best to avoid these ten mistakes, you will be well on your way to becoming a proficient bowhunter in no time!

If you don’t get started off on the right foot, you’re bound to make more errors down the road. This is why it’s crucial to select and use the right gear (including your beginner compound bow) from the start. Try to match the equipment to your personal skill level, strength, and intended use.

If you need help with this, don’t be afraid to ask plenty of questions at the archery shop, e.g. how much should you spend on a bow. By starting with the right gear, you will not only start out better but avoid buying more gear once you realize it’s not what you need.

While I don’t see this mistake as often as others here on our list, it’s still important to have a proper draw length. The wrong length can be uncomfortable, inaccurate, and potentially even dangerous in some cases. Ensure you have the right draw length for your body and this will help lead to more accurate shooting and equipment that fits you.

Complete beginners to archery should spend a great deal of time focusing on their archery form. This includes things such as your stance, grip, and of course, your posture.

While it may not seem like a big deal, how you position your body and torso while shooting can have a giant effect on just how accurate your shooting will be. The right posture will also help you properly draw your bow and ensure that your shooting stays as consistent as possible.

One of the most common mistakes I see is having an improper draw weight. For hunting, there are generally minimum restrictions on how little your draw weight can be but the real problem lies in people thinking they need more weight than they can comfortably handle.

Having too heavy of a draw weight will cause fatigue and bad habits to form. It is much better to start out with a lower, more manageable draw weight and slowly increase it (if you want to) as your skills and stamina allow.

Another aspect of archery form, anchor points are specific points on your body that you use as a reference to ensure consistent shooting. For example, I bring my release aid to the corner of my mouth when I shoot. Other anchor points could be placing the string, fingers, or release along certain points of your nose, cheekbone, or chin. Without using the same anchor points every time, your shooting will be inconsistent and you will be left wondering why you can’t get your arrows to hit the same spot on your archery target.

An easy way of sending arrows erratically down range is to grip your bow too tightly. This causes torque and can result in a decrease in accuracy and consistency. To combat this, simply try holding your bow with a loose grip and relaxed fingers. Keep the knuckles on your hand at a 45-degree angle and you should almost “cradle” the bow in between your thumb and index finger. Remember, less is more when holding the bow!

Your arrows, including other parts such as the nock, fletching, inserts, etc., should be matched to your bow. This means that the arrow you are shooting is specifically chosen to match your individual draw weight, length, and equipment. Arrows that are too long or too short will not be as accurate (and might even be dangerous). The same can be said for arrows that are too light or too heavy. To get the best results, talk with an expert to ensure your arrows match you and your gear.

Nothing can ruin a hunt faster than an old bow that has been neglected all year. Unlike a rifle, a bow needs a little more care for it to function properly. From something as simple as waxing the bowstring to paper tuning your arrows, all of the little tune-ups and upkeep tasks will help keep your bow performing as best as it possibly can.

So you’ve got all of your archery equipment dialed in, and everything is working together as one cohesive unit. You might be extremely accurate out at the range and now it’s time to head out on the hunt. You must make a good shot on an animal to ensure a quick and humane kill, but by far the largest mistake I see new bowhunters make is rushing the shot. They may be extremely accurate while at the archery range, but while shooting at an animal they fall apart. As exciting as it is, remember to take deep breaths and not rush the shot. Take your time, and try to execute a good shot like you have practiced before.

Speaking of practice, make sure you get plenty of it! Bowhunting is much more difficult than hunting with a rifle and requires a higher skill level. With so many more things that can go wrong, don’t be the guy who only shoots his bow a week before hunting season and expects everything to go smoothly.

Plenty of practice before the season will not only keep your skills sharp but will highlight any potential gear problems that need to be addressed before the hunt ever begins. With enough practice, you’ll be more confident than ever when an opportunity does present itself to kill that big buck in front of you!

A compound bow offers several advantages over traditional and recurve bows, but the jump in price can be significant. It can be a challenge to identify what differences there are between flagship, high-end compound bows, and low-cost options.

People who are new to archery may look first for the lowest possible cost or might be interested in the highest-end offering in the hope that a superior product will make learning the sport easier.

Today, we will break down the pros and cons of compound bows at various price points and we will throw in a little information about why some bows are more expensive than others.

The Quick Summary
Overall, compound bows can cost anywhere between $275 to $1,000 plus, depending on the brand and quality.
- Low cost bows will range from $275-$400.
- Mid-priced bows will range from $400-$600.
- High-end bows can cost upwards of $1,000.
The perfect price is one that matches your level of expertise, dedication, and desired budget.

A quick glance at the price of a nice entry-level recurve bow against an entry-level compound bow can be a shock to the system. While recurve bows top out at a fairly reasonable price, the best compound bows can quickly exceed $1,000 price tags.

The reasons are there, but they don’t necessarily translate into better products. The real reason that compound bows cost more has to do with two primary aspects.

First, compound bows are more expensive to manufacture. Second, almost every component of a compound bow is patented. That means companies looking to use patented components must pay a fee to the patent holder. This combination of costs is what drives the price tag more than anything else.

A fantastic high-end bow shoots great, but these tools also demand a lot from the archer. For archers with the resources to start out at the top of the scale, it is unlikely that you’ll dislike your bow. A quick glance at online auctions shows a good number of upper-end compound bows with light use, a sign that the archer wasn’t able to master the tool.

I like to think about it like trying to learn to drive a car by starting out with a race car. Driving the car isn’t necessarily different than a regular car, but the performance makes it much more difficult to learn. Learning a bow is a lot the same. Lower-performance bows can be easier to learn before deciding to move up to a higher-end compound bow.

Expensive bows typically feature the most advanced designs, use proprietary technology, and feature intricate craftsmanship. These factors contribute highly to the increased cost. The biggest difference these factors make is in the speed the bow shoots. In today’s archery world, most bows are priced according to how fast they shoot. Faster bows equal higher prices.

Mid-range bows typically use a combination of recent but not cutting-edge technology and lower manufacturing costs. Sometimes, this is because of simpler construction, but manufacturers can also lower costs by using less expensive materials. With that said, a number of the mid-range bows are of excellent quality and offer everything that the novice to the expert could want without a huge price tag.

A low-cost compound bow is anything that sells for around $275 or more. Below this point, archers are risking life and limb, literally. There are a ton of cheaply made Chinese knockoff compound bows that can explode during use. The old adage that ‘if a deal seems too good to be true, it probably is’ certainly applies to purchasing a compound bow.

Before you buy any bow, spend some time researching it. Most manufacturers provide detailed information about their products online. If it is hard to find any good information about a brand, it’s a sign the manufacturer is one to avoid.

Taking a trip to an archery store is another great way to separate the good from the bad. Archery stores will have the knowledge to steer you toward a quality product and will help work with your budget to identify the proper bow. FYI, if your archery store is trying to push an expensive bow on you as a novice, they probably aren’t reputable.

I discourage novice archers from purchasing a used compound bow as their first bow, especially online. There are a number of things that can go wrong with a compound bow that is difficult to identify in pictures. In some cases, the defects can cause a dangerous situation. Other problems can eliminate any savings when you have to replace bow parts that are worn out or damaged.

It is simply better to spend a bit more on a new compound bow than it is to try and save a few bucks buying a used bow.

Bows that fall in the $275 to $400 range are typically decent quality, but they will lack some desirable features. Most often, these are stripped-down compound bows or bows sod in package deals that include very low-cost accessories. Typically, bows in this price range have a single string stop and a brace height of around 6” to 7”. This gives the bow a speed of around 300 feet-per-second. In the end, these are the top picks for beginner compound bows. 

These bows fall within the $400 to $600 range. Typically, these bows feature better cams, dual string stops, and a more attractive riser design. They will shoot in the 310 to 325 FPS range. Usually, these bows will have better arrow nocks, sights, and function very quietly. Archers will find parallel compound arms with eccentric cams in this price range. This is the price point I would recommend a novice archer to compare.

These bows can range well above $1,000. They represent the best technology and most-current trends in design. Shorter brace heights result in power above 340 FPS. High-end bows frequently have low weight and are as smooth as butter to shoot once an archer has mastered their shooting technique. Bows in this price range are more appropriate for seasoned archers that can use the fine-tuned performance to their advantage.

Expect to pay between $300 and $600 for a quality bow. Avoid really cheap compound bows because they can be dangerous.

Compound bows have numerous precision parts that allow them to function. These parts are more expensive to manufacture than the components of traditional or recurve bows.

Expensive bows typically feature the latest in technology and are high-quality. They also shoot faster than less-expensive options. However, this does not necessarily mean the bow will make you a better archer. Expensive, high-end bows are more difficult to shoot.

Generally, it is better to avoid buying a used bow until you are familiar with the various parts and how to inspect the bow properly. If you have the ability to have an expert check out a used bow, you might be able to save some money.

The amount you’ll spend on the right bow ultimately boils down to the amount you are willing to spend. I’ve had plenty of fun shooting low-end compound bows, but archers looking for a low-cost way to get into the sport should look into recurve bows. A good recurve bow might cost half what a mid-priced compound bow will and is still cheaper than a low-cost compound.

It is a great idea to visit an archery shop and talk with an expert to help figure out the best bow option. There are minor variables between different bow brands and styles that will suit some archers better. It is also a great way to get started on learning the basics and knowing what to do to start out on the right foot.

I think we can all agree that hanging a stand isn't the easiest or funnest part of hunting. But regardless, like anything, there's an easy way to do it and a hard way.

Take a look at the information below if you're trying to hang a stand for the first time, or if you're just looking for a better way to do it. I'm sure there's a thing or two you'll learn! 

Before hanging your stand, you're going to need a gear checklist to make sure you're prepared. Remember to bring the following items, so you don't have to drive back home!

We all know treestand accidents are way too common, and even though you're not technically hunting - you need to have a hunting safety harness on with a lineman's rope attached as soon as you leave the ground.

Sometimes you find the perfect tree and that one little limb is right in the way. For this reason, be sure to bring along a pair of pruning shears or a small saw just in case you have to clean up a thing or two.

This is will also come in handy in a section below!

When you hang your stand, you'll most likely be in a relatively new spot. As a result, take a few trail markers to layout your perfect entry and exit route from your truck to your stand.

Lastly, once you have your climbing steps and hang on properly up and secured, you're going to need a way to hoist up your gear. Bring along a strong rope that is lengthy enough to reach your stand height.

No matter if you pick a hang-on stand, climbing stand or ladder stand, you need to be mindful of your tree type, as well as your location.

When picking a tree, I like to find a reliable maple, oak, or poplar.

Now, that doesn't mean these are always going to be the best, but they do give you the best chance to find a straight, solid tree with a good amount of cover.

Also, make sure to avoid any dead or leaning trees, or those that are too skinny to support a stand and hunter. Furthermore, staying away from trees with smooth or scaly bark will help your stand stay secure.

Of course, when picking a treestand location, you want to be where the deer are! 

If you're in a new area, try your best to identify the feeding and bedding areas of the deer around you. From there, recognizing travel corridors and trails between these two points is going to put you in the best possible spot to succeed. 

While scouting, remember to utilize trail cameras to confirm these travel patterns, and keep in mind that those mature bucks are most likely going to travel in thicker areas, away from open terrain, to avoid being spotted by predators.

From here, don't forget about the wind. While wind is relatively hard to predict, try your best to pick stand locations based on different situations. If the wind is bad in one location, having another stand in a different location might save you from getting winded.

And lastly, consider your entry and exit routes to your stand. If your best route to the stand is right along those beginning travel corridors, you're most likely putting yourself in a bad situation. Try to avoid directly crossing over any trails, especially as deer start to move.

To begin with, most hunters today are using climbing sticks, which are attached steps in 14-20 inch sections. While these aren't quite as mobile as traditional screw in steps, they are very light and much quicker and safer to use.

Once your climbing sticks are separated, start with your first step (bottom step) about knee height off the ground for optimal comfort and reach. Securely strap your stick onto the tree and push down with your weight. You should feel the step slide down slightly, then halt as the stick's teeth grip into the bark.

This sequence can be repeated over and over again as you start to attach more steps. 

Some hunters prefer to hook all of their steps around their safety harness, while others might take their time going up and down the tree with one additional step in hand. The choice is really up to you.

Of course, remember to attach your lineman's rope around the tree as soon as you exit the ground.

After you have all straps unwrapped from your hang on stand, place your hang on stand on your back and begin to climb. Again, while having your safety harness and lineman's rope attached.

Once you get to your final step section, I would recommend placing your hang-on stand slightly off-centered from your climbing sticks. You don't want the stand to be directly above your sticks, and you don't want it to be anywhere close to 90 degrees off-centered either.

Also, when placing your stand, try having the base at eye-level to your final top step. Of course, if you want additionally security you can always have it below your final step in case you want to use this section as a final hand placement.

In the end, the further away you get from that final step, the harder it's going to be.

Finally, secure your hang on stand with both straps - the order does not matter. At this point, it's all about personal preference. 

Remember, before you step onto the stand, fold up (or cam over) the stand and retighten the straps. As you fold up the stand, you should see the straps loosen - we won't to avoid that. Once they are tight, fold down the stand and the two straps should secure even more.

For a visual summary, watch the video below!

Now that you have everything in place it's good to take a breather and check off that final step - preparing shooting lanes.

Before you start, keep in mind that you're not trying to clear all brush within 15 yards of your stand. Your job is to identify passing trails and key points that put you in the best possible spot for a shot. If anything is in the way, do a little trimming.

If you clear too much, either in the tree by your stand or on the ground, you're forfeiting your cover. And I don't care how good your camouflage is, you will be sky-lined by a deer.

Also, if you're interested, we have a great blog showcasing information related to Deer Rubs & Scrapes!

In the world of archery, choosing the best bow brand is paramount to your success. Whether you're a seasoned archer or a beginner looking for their first compound bow, the quality of your bow can significantly impact your accuracy, performance, and overall enjoyment of the sport. In this article, we'll guide you through our expert recommendations for the top compound bow manufacturers in the market today.

These bows offer unparalleled craftsmanship, cutting-edge technology, and precision engineering, ensuring you have the best equipment to elevate your archery game.

Sorted By Average Price - Highest To Lowest

Mathews Archery has earned a well-deserved reputation for crafting some of the most accurate and reliable compound bows in the industry. Their dedication to precision engineering is evident in their patented Single Cam Technology, which provides archers with a smooth draw cycle and exceptional accuracy. Whether you're a target shooter or a hunter, Mathews Archery has a bow that suits your needs, making them a standout choice for discerning archers.

Hoyt Archery seamlessly blends tradition with cutting-edge technology. As one of the oldest and most respected names in archery, Hoyt has a legacy of producing high-quality bows that have stood the test of time. Their innovative designs, such as the modular cam system, give archers the flexibility to fine-tune their bows for optimal performance. When you choose a Hoyt bow, you're not just investing in a piece of equipment; you're becoming part of a storied tradition of excellence.

Bowtech is a name synonymous with innovation. With a rich history of pushing boundaries and setting new standards, Bowtech has consistently delivered top-tier bows that cater to a wide range of archers. Their commitment to quality and performance shines through in every product they offer. From the accuracy of their Binary Cam System to the adjustability of their bows, Bowtech's dedication to excellence sets them apart from the competition.

Elite Archery takes pride in redefining precision in the hunting crowd. Their commitment to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched, resulting in bows that deliver unparalleled accuracy and consistency. Elite's unique shoot-through riser design minimizes torque and vibration, giving archers the edge they need to excel. If you demand nothing but the best in terms of precision, Elite Archery is the brand to consider.

Prime Archery is known for its innovative approach to bow design. They've introduced the Centergy Technology, which optimizes balance and stability for shooters. Prime bows are highly customizable, allowing archers to fine-tune their equipment to their exact preferences. If you're looking for a bow that combines innovation with precision, Prime Archery is a brand worth exploring.

Obsession Bows is a brand that embodies the passion of archery enthusiasts. Their bows are meticulously crafted to deliver unmatched precision and consistency. The Obsession Hybrid Cam System offers a perfect blend of speed and accuracy, making them ideal for both target shooters and hunters. If you're looking for a bow that's born out of a deep love for archery, Obsession Bows is the choice for you.

Bear Archery is a name that resonates with archers who appreciate time-tested quality. With a heritage dating back to the early 20th century, Bear Archery has a legacy of producing bows that combine durability, performance, and affordability. Their Bear EAZ Cam System ensures a smooth draw and consistent accuracy, making them a favorite among bowhunters. When you choose a Bear Archery bow, you're choosing a piece of history that will serve you faithfully.

For those seeking a balance between performance and affordability, PSE Archery is a standout choice. They've consistently delivered bows that provide exceptional value without compromising on quality. PSE's commitment to innovation is evident in their Evolve Cam System, which offers impressive speed and accuracy. If you're an archer on a budget but refuse to compromise on performance, PSE Archery has the perfect solution.

For archers who a more affordable option, Mission bows offers a range of versatile and dependable options. Their bows are engineered for accuracy and durability, making them a favorite among hunters. With adjustable draw lengths and exceptional build quality, Mission provide archers with the tools they need to succeed in the field.

Diamond Archery is an American archery manufacturer based in Eugene, Oregon. They are known for their high-quality bows that are designed for both beginners and experienced archers. Diamond bows are known for being easy to use and adjust, making them a great choice for people of all ages and skill levels.

Diamond Archery offers a wide range of bows, from youth bows to high-performance target bows. They also offer a variety of accessories, such as arrows, sights, and stabilizers.

When it comes to bows, I would stay away from any Cabela's/Bass pro branded option.

Of course, most of the time retailers have their products made by a separate manufacturer. In this case, it's Bear Archery. While these two (and now one) brands, have rotated manufacturers in the past, everything is currently being made by Bear.

Now, there's nothing wrong with a Bear bow. It's just the fact that when you look at customer service, as well as small design changes. They aren't going to be as good as an actual knowledge-holding manufacturer. 

In conclusion, hunters and target shooters have exceptional options from reputable manufacturers. Each of the brands mentioned here has a unique approach to design, innovation, and performance. Your choice ultimately depends on your specific preferences and requirements as an archer. Whether you prioritize precision, affordability, tradition, or innovation, there's a perfect bow waiting for you among these top manufacturers. Make an informed decision, and you'll be well on your way to becoming a more skilled and successful archer.

The choice of your compound bow can make or break your performance. That's why it's crucial to consider these top manufacturers, each known for their unique strengths and innovations. By choosing a bow from one of these esteemed brands, you'll not only enhance your archery experience but also position yourself for success on the field or at the range.

For a somewhat related subject, take a look at our blog comparing Bows vs. Crossbows! 

Successfully introducing your pup to gunfire is one of the most foundational parts of developing a good bird dog. 

Many hunters skip ahead to other areas of training, and just assume a young pup can handle a shotgun sound. Wrong they are!

Of course, some dogs take to the sound of gunfire relatively easily and quickly, but going off that assumption can create a load of issues that are very difficult to repair.

For this reason, I summarized the exact steps I used to train my two GSP's, while also outlining a few key pieces of information that helped me along the way. Enjoy and good luck with the training!

Single event learning means that dogs are impressionable, and that "One negative or traumatic experience may induce fear or phobic response".

I bring this up because when you first start gunfire training your hunting dog, you might want to take things slow. If your dogs begins to associate negativity with your gun or gunfire, you're going to have a very long road ahead of you.

For this reason, make sure to read all the information below, and watch as many videos as possible before introducing gunfire to your new pup.

And to not scare you off... if you do this correctly, you can easily associate positive emotions to a gun going off - increasing the drive of your dog and heightening his level of enjoyment! 

Follow the steps below if you're looking for a full step-by-step guide to gunfire introduction:

As soon as you bring your dog home, and before you even start training with a hunting collar, it's best to get your dog accustomed to loud noises... while trying your best to associate them with something good.

For instance, when feeding my puppy, I would drop a few forks and spoons in a metal pot. It sounds a little far-fetched, but this a baby step to introducing your dog to a gun. You're wanting the dog to focus on something good (i.e. the food), while something loud and disturbing is happening in the background. 

Once you bring your dog out to field, properly introducing them to birds is going to be a must-have for anything related to gunfire. 

If you can get your dog excited about birds, willing to do anything to go after one, that increased drive will make it much easier once a gun is introduced.

For me, I preferred using a wing-clipped bird, or a bird tied to a string to entice the dog to go after it. Using a bird that can easily fly away makes the game a little too hard for the puppy. You want something he/she can chase around and get excited with.

After your dog is excited about birds, the next steps are relatively easy. The key thing here is to watch your dog for any reactions to the gun. If you notice your dog reacting, especially negatively, you'll want to take a few steps back.

The first introduction of a gun should be done from a very far distance, preferably 50-100 yards away. In a perfect scenario, you're able to handle your dog while a friend controls the gun from a distance.

This sentence above is even more important to remember if you're using a shotgun.

Of course, if possible, I would recommend starting with a .22 blank, but not all hunters have something like this available. 

When first firing off a gun at a distance, you want to properly time the shot.

Your goal in this exercise is for the dog to not react to or recognize the shot. And the best time to do that is when he/she is completely and totally focused on the bird. I've found that the dog is most honed in while chasing the bird, no matter if your using a fly-away bird or a wing-clipped one. 

To quickly summarize, you want your gunner to fire off that shot right before your dog gets the bird or when it's in full sprint after a fly-away. I would not recommend shooting while the dog is on point, as they are retrieving, or after the bird is long gone.

While this isn't necessarily a step, I wanted to point out the fact that progress should be satisfying enough - you're not out there to fully train a dog in one day.

If your dog isn't reacting to their first day of gunshots, look at this as a positive thing and move onto something else.

You can always come back in a few days or a week and progress to a closer distance without losing any ground.

As your dog continues to point and chase down birds with no reaction to gunfire, continue to close the distance at around 10 yards or so each time. 

Again, the goal is to not see any reaction, and in fact, to associate this gunfire with birds - something your dog breed is naturally excited to go after. If you can connect "gunfire" and "birds" for the dog, you're going down the right path!

After the long process of introducing your dogs to loud noises, birds, and gunfire from a distance, it's now time to shoot over your dog.

By this time, if everything is done properly, you should start to see a dog so focused on the bird that it ignores pretty much anything else! The best part of this process is when dogs start to recognize the need for the hunter and their gun, and that a solid point and good shot equals an opportunity for them to retrieve their most prized item - the bird!

Remember to avoid these all-too-common training mistakes when introducing your hunting dog to gunfire:

After you've successfully completed some of the initial steps, it's time to break out your gun. And when doing so, you need to make sure you have plenty of room!

As outlined above, to minimize the volume of the gun (especially if you're first utilizing a shotgun) you need to be far away from the pup.

I would recommend having at least 50-100 yards between you and the dog when first introducing any gunfire. 

Shooting too closely, especially if there's objects around you that might create an echo, increases the chances of your dog focusing on the gun and not the bird. And also gives them the chance to associate worry and fear with the sound of a gun.

Before you ask your gunner to step away, make sure you have a clear signal to show him/her when to fire. Doing so too early or too late can be somewhat problematic.

A perfectly timed shot is one that takes places when the bird is released and the dog is fully captivated by the chase and catching that bird. You want to avoid shooting when the puppy is on point or right when he breaks. And you also want to avoid shooting after the dog begins loosing attention, or the bird is too far away.

Like everything else in training, doing too much can backfire on you real quick!

If you're successfully able to fire off a few shots each training session with no problems, take the progress and move onto something else. From there, remember where you left off, and start at the next level in a week or so.

Always remember, it's easier to speed up your training session, rather than to go back and fix a mistake - especially when you're talking about gunfire!

If you've just started introducing your dog to gunfire, and you're trying to gauge their comfort level, I would recommend taking a look at the following behavioural categories. 

If your dog is showcasing any of these actions, then your dog might be somewhat afraid of gunfire.

- Aggressive Actions - Raised hairs on the back (hackles), growling, snarling, snapping, or biting.

- Avoiding Actions - Cowering, looking away, tucking its tail, and perhaps trembling or panting.

- Nervous Movements  - Backing up, hiding behind your legs, or lip licking.

Now, I'm not an expert on fixing a gun shy dog. I've only trained two GSP's, and fortunately for me, I've had experienced individuals around to help in order to make sure this doesn't happen.

If you feel as though you made some mistakes when training your dog, or you've moved through these steps too quickly, I would recommend watching the video below first. 

From there, reach out to your local NAVHDA chapter, or a hunting dog kennel in the area, to see if they can provide any assistance.

And if you want to read some similar info, checkout our blog summarizing the Best Hunting Dog Kennels!

To beginning archers, I can understand why bow sights are confusing. You might even ask yourself, "When do bow sights work best?"

Unfortunately, many people assume that understanding a bow sight is easy... and it might have been... 20 or so years ago.

But today, these hunting companies are creating some rather unique bow sights, and it's good to know what the differences are and which one might be best for you and your style of hunting.

If you're interested in learning more about bow sights, we've got the information you need to right here!

A bow sight is a bow accessory that attaches to the riser portion of the bow.

These accessories are used to help archers aim the bow at their desired target. By using a pin (or several different pins) the archer knows where to accurately aim their bow depending on the distance of the target or animal.

They come in quite a few different sizes, shapes, and configurations, and are most commonly used on compound bows for both hunting and competition shooting. 

One caveat - many competition archers that utilize recurves equip their bows with sights for added accuracy.

The best time to use a bow sight is when the distance of your target is known. 

While bow sights are not necessarily a requirement in archery, they do help individuals, especially those that use compound bows, to accurately aim at their target... from several different distances.

When it really comes down to it, there are only two major types of bow sights:

Single pin sights contain one pin within the pin guard area and are used within adjustable sights. Hunters use the adjustable dial to move the pin based on predetermined markers.

Multi-pin sights contain more than one pin inside the pin guard housing - usually anywhere from 3-6 pins. Multi-pin sights come in fixed and adjustable style sights, but are more common in fixed ones as you don't necessarily need an adjustable dial with these.

But just in case, you want some additional information, here are a few images summarizing the different sub-types of bow sights (fixed pin vs. adjustable pin) available to archers today!

Take a look at the image below showcasing the various different parts of a bow sight. Don't worry, it's not too bad!

Once you've found the best bow sight for hunting, you're going to want to get this thing dialed in. Take a look at the recommendation below, as well as one of the most highly viewed videos, to learn what you need to do.

The number on thing to remember when sighting in a bow is to move your pins and/or housing where your arrow is landing on the archery target. For example, if you're sighting in your 20 yard pin and your arrow lands down and to the left of the bullseye, you need move your pin and/or housing down and to the left. 

This will make you move your bow up and to the right when you take your second shot, which is the direction you need to go to get closer to the center.

If you choose to not use a bow sight, you're going to use what many call the "instinctive aiming method".

This means that you're shooting your bow with both eyes open and aiming based off mostly feel and the general direction, level of your bow... rather than putting a single reference point on the target. 

While this is commonly used while hunting with a recurve or longbow, most hunters don't usually utilize this method with a compound bow.

Also, we have an amazing blog summarizing the Best Ravin Crossbows if you're interested in reading somethings somewhat related!

The season is quickly approaching and finding the best ladder stand for deer hunting might be on your to-do list!

As you'd expect, most ladder stands are built with the same design in mind. However, if you're not careful, you'll miss some of the small things that separate a good stand from a bad one. 

The Quick Summary
Overall, the Best Ladder Stand is the BIG GAME Hunter HD 1.5!
Below you can check out other top options including the... 
- Best 2 Man Ladder Stand: Hawk Big Denali 2-Man
- Most Comfortable Ladder Stand: Guide Gear Ultra Comfort 18'
- Most Lightweight Ladder Stand: Novix Raider
And scroll down to find out the one thing to avoid when picking your ladder stand!

I first started using ladder stands for deer hunting years ago as it was the safest and easiest option for me. Of course, as you hunt out of these different models, you learn what you like and what you don't like. And most importantly, what's going to help produce a successful hunt.

Take a look at the product overviews below as I share what models I like the most, and what things I pay attention to before I pick any new ladder stand!

Trivia Question: Do you know what ladder stands were originally designed for? (Click here to see answer).

Full Disclosure: Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you follow an affiliate link and end up making a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.  

Out of the best deer ladder stands, is there one better than the BIG GAME Hunter HD?! I just don't think so... This is the stand deer hunters are all talking about and easy to see why.

This stand is at the intersection of value, quality, and performance. Standing at 18'6" tall, it keeps you concealed from deer while providing a spacious and comfortable experience with a sturdy platform and a cozy seat (23" wide x 18" deep).

Fully equipped with features like a padded shooting rail, Flex-tek seats, and an extra-wide platform, this ladder stand sets a new standard in the field. Weighing just 61 lbs. yet boasting an impressive 350 lbs. weight rating, it ensures safety with the inclusion of a Full-Body Fall Arrest System.

For latest prices, and more information about the BIG GAME Hunter HD 1.5, click below!

The Hawk Big Denali is the ultimate 2-person ladder stand (and probably the most comfortable 2-man ladder stand) as it's designed to support up to 500 pounds.

Equipped with 2 full patio-chair-sized MeshComfort seats featuring flip-up padded armrests and contoured backrests, you'll enjoy exceptional comfort. The seat dimensions (24 x 23 inches) and platform dimensions (17 x 51 inches) offer ample room for relaxation and maneuverability for any awkward shot.

This ladder stand comes with dual welded kick-out footrests that also double as grab handles, allowing for easy platform entry and exit. The flip-back padded shooting rail can be adjusted from upward for gun rest to downward for archery hunting clearance, accommodating various hunting styles.

Lastly, the Safe-Tread steps provide stable footing, and the bolted ladder sections further reinforce its robust construction!

For latest prices, and more information on the Hawk Big Denali 2-Man, take a look below!

The pinnacle of ladder stand comfort is the Guide Gear Ultra Comfort 18'!

The obvious standout feature is the mesh seat that molds to your body, delivering exceptional and supportive comfort throughout long hunts. Need a standing position? Simply flip up the seat. The padded shooting rail is also flip-up friendly, allowing adjustments or removal to suit your preferences.

And at this price point, the Guide Gear Ultra Comfort Ladder Tree Stand is an outstanding value!

But don't forget about the adjustable, flip-up shooting rail at an 18' height, ensuring versatility and convenience. Top it all off with a powder-coated steel construction and you've got something that guarantees durability and reliability.

For latest prices, and more information on the Guide Gear Ultra Comfort 18', we have that as well!

The lightest ladder stand on the market right now is the Novix Raider, and its design is out of this world - making it a great portable ladder treestand pick!

Its machined aluminum platform not only ensures a lightweight packable ladder tree stand build but also provides rigidity for easy and secure boot placement, even in icy or slippery hunting conditions.

And say goodbye to time-consuming assembly with the Zero assembly feature, as this stand comes ready to hunt, eliminating the need for nuts and bolts. Climbing in silence is now possible, thanks to the VersaLocks that connect the sticks without any metal-to-metal contact.

Lastly, don't sleep on its comfort level with the self-level platform, allowing you to sit comfortably in the gnarliest of trees by adjusting the stand front-to-back like your favorite recliner.

This just might be one of the best ladder stands for bow hunting!

For latest prices, and more information on the Novix Raider, we have that as well!

Before anyone purchases a ladder option, you're going to need to evaluate how much these stands cost and how much money you have in the bank account.

While ladder stands seem like they'd be a hefty investment, their price tag is pretty reasonable in all honesty. Of course, you have some very expensive options, especially if you're purchasing a two-man setup; but in the end, you're probably going to spend between $200 and $400 dollars on a reliable stand.

Pro Tip: Recheck all ropes and straps on your ladder stand before each season.

Comfort, comfort, comfort is one of the most important things to keep in mind before purchasing a new ladder stand. 

Hunting while sitting on an uncomfortable metal seat or a soaking wet or cold cushion will have you headed for the cabin in no time!

Many of the top treestand options have moved to a mesh style seat, with the best of the best giving you the choice to fold up the seat in case you need to stand for a bit of time. 

Outside of this, don't forget that comfort also depends on your foot platform size as well. Make sure, especially if you're a big guy, to purchase something with an adequate amount of room to stand up and turn around. Being stuck in one place for hours on end does not lead to a comfortable hunt!

Ladder stands are now being built in several different styles and designs, with some of these options being relatively universal (unlike your hang on ladder stands).

It's important to understand that your style of hunting, either with a bow or rifle, is going to make a huge impact on the effectiveness of you stand. 

For instance, the Novix Raider mentioned above is a relatively solid option for most bowhunters, but because it doesn't have an attached rail, many rifle/shotgun/muzzleloader hunters might find this problematic when trying to balance their gun. 

On the other side of things, there are ladder stands that have static rails that do not move up or down. Being a bowhunter and hunting out of one of these is terribly difficult and should be avoided. Not only is it difficult to draw back a bow, but it also eliminates several shooting lanes.

For a good balance, I would recommend something like the BIG GAME Hunter HD 1.5 that gives you the option of a rail, and the additional option of moving it out of the way with minimal interference. It even lets you move the seat back!

When it comes to ladder stands, most are going to be between 12 and 18 feet tall with a few brands producing models in the 20 and 22 feet category.

While there's not a ton of options when it comes to ladder stand, any of these height options would be considered ideal when deer hunting. As you'll notice below, I would recommend staying around 15 feet or so for an optimal balance of safety and avoiding any scent detection. 

A ladder stand is a model of tree stand that combines a ladder and a platform to enable hunters to hunt above the ground safely and easily. They are usually 12 to 18 feet tall and made out of aluminum or steel. Additionally, the platforms are engineered in two different styles to accommodate one and two people.

Ladder stands have several advantages over climbing stands.

First, if setup before the hunt, they allow the hunter to quickly, easily, and quietly get up in the tree. Additionally, they are usually more comfortable when compared to climbing stands, and much safer as the stand is securely fixed to the tree.

As far as cons, ladder stands are much heavier and do require an additional hand or two when setting them up. Additionally, they are not recommended for public land as there are sometimes restrictions, and there's a high probability it will get stolen.

In the end, the best height for a ladder stand is around 10 to 15 feet. Of course, the closer you are to around the 15 feet market, the better.

Out of the different types of treestands, the ladder stand is without a doubt the safest option due to the fact that it's placed firmly on the ground and securely attached to the tree. Additionally, the motion of advancing up a traditional ladder structure is inherently more safe than climbing treestands or climbing sticks.

Also, if you're looking for statistics to support our answer, TSSA showcases that only 20% of treestand accidents are caused by ladders.

But when it comes to the safest ladder stand pick, that question has still gone unanswered.

Deer are not scarred of ladder stands. However, this has more to do with when you place your stand in the woods, rather than the type of stand you use.

Placing a ladder stand in the woods week, or even better, months before opening day is going to give deer plenty of time to get accustomed to the object. Additionally, by doing this, you're fully eliminating any scent that might have been on the stand in the first place.

Yes, Summit makes one version of a ladder stand called the Summit Two-Person Ladder.

Yes, this stand is great second option to the Hunter HD 1.5 mentioned above as it's slightly cheaper at just under $200. Keep in mind though, this stand does not come equipped with a footrest.

The tallest tree stand is the Primal Treestands Mac Daddy at 22 feet tall. This is a two-person deer hunting ladder stand.

Ladder stands have come a long way over the years. They've gotten lighter, they're incorporating better accessories, but the most important thing - they've gotten more comfortable. 

Now, that doesn't mean every stand is better! Some treestand brands haven't evolved, and are producing the same designs I hunted on 20 years ago.

When choosing a ladder stand, make sure to avoid two things when it comes to seats. One, do not purchase anything that has a standard metal platform style seat. These are uncomfortable, they rust, they freeze - it's just not ideal.

Two, don't purchase a stand with a cushioned seat. Yes, it sounds great at first until you get up in the stand and realize it's rained the night before... They soak up water and easily break down over the years. 

If possible, try to focus on purchasing a stand with a durable mesh seat. These will provide a good amount of comfort while not absorbing any water or moisture if the weather turns bad.

Answer: In the early 1900s, bird hunters in the Midwest would use ladders to climb trees to get a better vantage point for shooting.

No matter if you're a novice looking for the best beginner compound bow, or an experienced hunter wanting a refresh of their knowledge, every archer needs to know the parts of an arrow. 

Take a look at the handy information below that summarizes everything you need to know related to an arrow. This is the base knowledge needed to help you improve your accuracy for both practice, competition shooting, and hunting.

Listed below are the different parts of an arrow, and a brief description of each.

An arrow nock (also known as "nock" or "nock point") is a small plastic or metal component located at the rear end of an arrow. It is designed to fit onto the bowstring, allowing the arrow to be securely held in place before and during the shot.

The arrow nock typically has a V-shaped or half-moon groove that accommodates the bowstring, ensuring proper alignment of the arrow with the string. This alignment is essential for consistent and accurate shooting. When an archer prepares to shoot, they place the arrow's nock onto the bowstring, between two nocking points, which are usually small brass, plastic, string loops placed on the bowstring to ensure consistent arrow placement.

The nock plays a critical role in archery, as it helps maintain the arrow's position and orientation during the draw and release, which directly impacts the flight path of the arrow. By having a consistent and secure nocking point, archers can improve their accuracy and precision in hitting their target. It's crucial to inspect and maintain the arrow nocks regularly to ensure they are in good condition and perform optimally during shooting.

Arrow fletching refers to the feathers or vanes attached to the rear end of an arrow. These fletchings play a crucial role in stabilizing the arrow during flight, ensuring accuracy and consistency in its trajectory. By creating drag and controlling the arrow's spin, fletchings help keep the arrow on a straight path and counteract the effects of wind and other external factors.

Traditionally, arrows were fletched with natural feathers from birds, such as turkey or goose feathers. However, modern arrows often use synthetic materials for fletchings, such as plastic vanes, which offer durability and consistency.

The fletchings are typically attached near the nock end of the arrow, with most arrows having three fletchings positioned at equal angles around the shaft. Different configurations, like two fletchings or even four fletchings, are also used in specialized circumstances.

An arrow shaft is the main body or central component of an arrow. It is the long, straight part of the arrow that connects the arrowhead at the front to the nock at the rear end. The shaft is responsible for transferring the energy from the bow to the arrowhead, propelling the arrow forward when the bow is released.

Arrow shafts are typically made of various materials, with the most common being:

1. Wood: Historically, arrows were primarily made from wood, such as cedar, pine, or birch. Wooden arrow shafts are still used today, especially in traditional archery, due to their natural and traditional appeal.

2. Aluminum: Modern arrow shafts made from aluminum are widely used in target archery and recreational shooting. They offer consistency, durability, and are available in various diameters and wall thicknesses.

3. Carbon: Carbon arrow shafts are prevalent in both target archery and hunting. They are lightweight, strong, and have excellent consistency, making them popular among archers who require high-performance arrows.

The choice of arrow shaft material depends on the archer's preference, shooting style, and purpose. Each material has its advantages and disadvantages, and selecting the right arrow shaft is crucial for achieving optimal performance and accuracy while shooting.

An arrow insert is a small component that is typically made of metal, plastic, or other durable materials. It is designed to be installed into the front end of an arrow shaft. The primary purpose of an arrow insert is to provide a threaded connection point for attaching the arrowhead or point to the arrow shaft.

When constructing an arrow, the arrowhead (broadhead or field point) is screwed into the arrow insert, which is pre-installed inside the arrow shaft. This threaded connection ensures a secure and reliable attachment of the arrowhead, preventing it from coming loose during shooting.

Arrow inserts come in different sizes and thread patterns to match the corresponding arrow shafts and arrowheads. They are often glued or pressed into the front end of the arrow shaft during the arrow assembly process. Additionally, some inserts are designed to have specific weights, allowing archers to customize the arrow's overall weight and balance according to their preferences and shooting needs.

An arrow point, also known as an arrowhead, is the tip or front end of an arrow. It is the part of the arrow that makes direct contact with the target and is responsible for penetrating the target upon impact. Arrow points come in various shapes and designs, each suited for specific purposes such as hunting, target shooting, or traditional archery.

There are two primary types of arrow points:

1. Broadheads: Broadheads are used for hunting and are designed with sharp blades to create a wide cutting diameter upon impact. They are meant to cause significant tissue damage and ensure a lethal shot. Broadheads can be fixed-blade (with stationary blades) or mechanical (with deployable blades).

2. Field Points: Field points are used for target shooting and practice. They have a simple, rounded shape and are typically made of metal or plastic. Field points help maintain the arrow's flight characteristics similar to that of broadheads, making them ideal for honing accuracy.

When asked to name the parts of an arrow, you'll also have these too:

An arrow wrap is a self-adhesive vinyl that is wrapped around the rear of the shaft.

While it's not the most important part of an arrow, many archers still utilize wraps for hunting to help determine the placement of their shot based on the color of the arrow after it exits the animal. They are also used as a more secure surface to attach the vane to.

Additionally, they do add a pretty cool traditional look to most arrows... if you're interested in that.

An o-ring is a small rubber, circular band that fits between the insert and the point of an arrow.

O-rings are not commonly used to today because of the small diameter of carbon arrows. Before this, they were used to ensure a more secure fit between the point and the insert.

However, some archers still utilize o-rings to help align their broadhead with the vanes.

The spine rating of an arrow is basically the measurement of the arrow's flex or bend - or its stiffness.

The ideal arrow has the perfect balance of flex and forgiveness, and each archer must evaluate their arrow length, arrow weight, and point weight to determine what's best for them.

Hunting arrows usually range from a spine of 500 on the weaker side, to 300 or so on the stiffer side.

Source

There are 5 main parts of an arrow: Nock, Fletching, Shaft, Insert, and Point.

The feather or vane portion of an arrow is called the fletching.

The notch at the end of the arrow is called a nock.

Arrow heads are usually referred to as field points or broadheads. Archers will use field points for practice and/or competition shooting, and will use broadheads specifically for hunting.

Broadheads and field points are the two main parts of an arrowhead.

Archers will, at times, have or carry a quiver to hold their arrows. Hunters usually have what's known as a detachable quiver that can attach to the bow during travel but be removed while in a treestand or blind.

Competition archers will usually have a belt or hip quiver that hold their arrows by their waste and out of the way of the bow.

Also, in case you're interested we have a blog summarizing the Best Crossbow Bolts too!

Deer meat, also known as venison, has a number of positive benefits that make it a great, and even superior, alternative compared to other meats. Sure, you may be much more familiar and even stuck on the tried and true chicken and beef varieties, but there are many benefits to be found in deer meat. Plus, it simply tastes great!

This article lists our top ten reasons for eating deer meat. Here are the major three benefits to eating deer meat:

1. Lean Protein

2. Low Fat

3. Nutrient Dense

Keep reading on below to learn more about all ten benefits. And stick around to the end to gain some tips on how to best prepare and cook venison.

Related Blog
Curious How Many People A Deer Will Feed? We have the answer for you!

Venison is a great source of high-quality lean protein. It contains all the essential amino acids needed to repair body tissues and for your body’s growth. Compared to beef and pork, deer meat is generally much leaner and makes for a great substitute while still giving you the high-quality protein you’re looking for.

There are several reasons for this including deer’s muscle composition and their diet and environment.

Deer are very active animals and thus, they develop strong muscles. Cattle and pigs on the other hand are very sedentary animals. When comparing the two, it’s quite obvious that the active wild animal is going to have a lot of lean muscle while the more sedentary animal will have more fat.

As for their diet and environment, wild deer are just that, wild. They eat grass, leaves, and other plant materials. This natural diet helps give them their lean physique. Whereas on the other hand, animals on a farm may be fed high-calorie diets designed to make them bigger quicker, which leads to less muscle and more fat.

According to the US Department of Agriculture’s National Nutrient Database, three ounces of ground venison contains 159 calories, 22.5 grams of protein, 7 grams of fat and 83 mg of cholesterol. In comparison, a three-ounce cooked serving of 90% lean ground beef with 10% fat contains 173 calories, 21.4 grams of protein, 9.1 grams of fat, and 71 mg of cholesterol. Meanwhile, a three-ounce serving of cooked ground beef that is 95% lean meat and 5% fat provides 139 calories, 22 grams of protein, 5.1 grams of fat, and 71 mg of cholesterol.

If you’re looking to reduce your overall fat intake, while still eating meat, lean meats are key, and deer meat is a great option. This goes right along with deer meat containing more lean protein. Deer meat is especially low in saturated fat, which is linked to heart disease, so right there it’s the better choice “cardiovascular-speaking”. It’s also low in intramuscular and subcutaneous fat.

Intramuscular fats are better known as marbling. Marbling can be more commonly seen on meats like beef and pork. It’s the visible fat that is scattered within muscle. Sometimes, people seek this out as it can improve the flavor and tenderness of some meat. But too much of this can lead to simply too much overall fat content.

Subcutaneous fat is the layer of fat that can be found right beneath the skin. Again, deer typically will have much less subcutaneous fat than cows or pigs, contributing once again to deer meat being the better choice for lean meat.

Another major benefit of deer meat is that it has a high number of essential nutrients. These include iron, zinc, selenium, B vitamins, and vitamin E. These nutrients are vital for maintaining optimal bodily functions, producing energy, immune system support, and metabolism. And they can all be found in venison.

As a quick note, here are some helpful reminders concerning the benefits of these different nutrients:

Iron is crucial for the production of red blood cells, helping transport oxygen throughout the body as well as maintaining a healthy immune function and metabolism.

Zinc also plays an important role in immune system function as well as helping with wounds healing among other benefits.

B vitamins are essential for energy metabolism, nervous system functions, and producing red blood cells.

Selenium has antioxidant properties and helps protect cells from damage, while also being important to support of the immune system and thyroid function.

Vitamin E is important for vision, reproduction health and healthy blood, brain and skin. It also contains antioxidants help protect the body from cell and tissue damage.

Compared to grain-fed animals, deer that graze on a natural diet have much higher levels of omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3s are an essential fat that plays an important role in the function of our bodies. They reduce inflammation, improve heart health, support brain function, and provide for healthier skin.

Deer, wild deer, will be less likely exposed to things such as antibiotics, hormones, artificial additives, etc., than farmed animals.

Some people are allergic to meats such as beef, pork, and chicken. For those people, deer meat serves as a great alternative with all the benefits listed here.

Hunting deer can mean less land cleared for intensive farming, the control of deer overpopulation, and promotes the balance of natural ecosystems.

Hunting deer meat can bring you much closer and foster a deeper relationship to the meat you eat than just simply buying it from a grocery store. The act of hunting alone is a tradition older than time. And even if you do buy it from a grocery store, that may be helping provide for a hunter elsewhere.

Deer meat can be used and cooked all sorts of ways. From steaks and roasts, to sausages and stews, deer meat has a lot of to offer in a variety of ways.

And finally, deer meat tastes great! It’s got a unique rich flavor that is also slightly sweet. It can definitely add a unique twist to a recipe that has gone stale from overusing the same type of meat each time.

In conclusion, deer meat, or venison, is a great alternative choice to other more widely used meats. It’s a great source of lean protein with little fat and high nutrients. It adds a unique flavor to your meals and is versatile. And furthermore, it is an environmentally friendly option – and if you hunt your own deer meat, it will give you a newfound sense of closeness to the food you eat. Everyone ought to try it!

In case you're interested, we also have a great blog summarizing the Best Deer Hunting States!

So you just bagged a nice buck, and you're trying to figure out which type of deer mount is best for you!

Well... you've come to the right place.

Listed below are the most popular types of deer mount styles utilized by hunters today. While there are several options, the list to choose from is relatively straight forward. 

Of course, each style of mount has their own pros and cons, as well as different price points. Be sure to read each section below before making your final pick.

Listed below are the several different styles of mounts hunters choose for their whitetail.

A traditional shoulder mount is probably one of the most well-known types of mounts out there, and most likely the deer mount you see when walking into a hunting store or hunting lodge.

These mounts include the head and neck, and go down to the shoulder of the deer. 

While many of these are traditionally mounted on the wall, you are seeing several hunters utilize what's called a pedestal mount, while also incorporating some sort of base structure to hold it up.

A professionally done shoulder mount from a taxidermist can cost you between $300 and $700.

To go into more details, check out the many different types of shoulder mounts available from taxidermists:

For those looking to do something a little more than a shoulder mount, you might want to check out what's known as a full body mount.

As the name suggests, this means the full body of the deer is mounted for display.

Now, while these mounts are amazing to look at that, there are few cons. First, they're obviously much more expensive when compared to shoulder mounts, and you also need a lot of room to display one of these.

A full body mount is a great way to display a large deer, or a scene that properly depicts your kill. 

A professionally done full body deer mount from a taxidermist can cost you between $1,800 and $3,500.

For those that want something very simple and cheap to complete, I would personally recommend an antler mount.

While you're not able to display anything related to the deer's body structure, you are able to easily display those antlers... which isn't always a bad thing.

Some hunter incorporate a high-quality wooden plague, and a simple velvet skull cover to spice up the display.

An antler mount can be successfully completed for under $200.

Very similar to the antler mount mentioned above, the European mount incorporates one additional feature - the skull.

For this process, the antlers are kept attached to the skull, and the skull is cleaned and polished for a better overall look.

Similar to the other mount, you can utilize a high-quality wooden plagues to hold the mount against a wall.

Similar to an antler mount, a European mount can be done for under $200 as well.

For a blog that talks about What Deer Poop Looks Like, we have that too!

Are you trying to find the best climbing sticks for this upcoming hunting season?

Unfortunately, a lot of the blogs out there just don't easily summarize the top picks when it comes to this area of hunting, and when they do - they don't give you all the pros and cons you need to make your final choice. 

The blog below is going to summarizes the 4 most highly reviewed and rated climbing sticks any hunter can buy. 

Each product overview is going to easily point out what you might like and what you might dislike, and there's even a convenient comparison guide with the most important specifications.

Lastly, be sure to check out the Things To Consider and FAQ section so you don't miss anything!

The Quick Summary
Overall, the Best Climbing Sticks for hunting is the XOP X2!
Below you can check out other top climbing stick options including the... 
- Best Climbing Sticks For Saddle Hunting: Lone Wolf D'Acquisto Series Compact
- Best Cheap Climbing Sticks: Hawk Helium
- Lightest Climbing Sticks: Tethrd One
And scroll down to find out the one thing to remember before buying a pair!

While I prefer using a climbing stand, I've spent several years utilizing different climbing sticks as a way to navigate difficult-to-climb trees. In that time, you learn what works and what doesn't, and what brands are engineering the hunting gear hunters need.

Each of these climbing stick options are a great fit for several different types of hunters. Of course, each of our needs vary but these are the top picks within some of the heavily researched areas. 

I would encourage everyone to read more information related to the each of these brands and how they've developed some of the top climbing sticks available to hunters today.

Trivia Question: What was the name of the first tree-saddle hunting brand in the USA? (Click here to see answer).

Full Disclosure: Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you follow an affiliate link and end up making a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.  

The XOP X2 climbing tool is the ultimate choice for hunters seeking technical superiority and ultralight performance - what more can you ask for?

With its 10" step, increased stand-off, and minimalist design, the X2 delivers exceptional functionality on even the most demanding hunting missions. Its modular construction allows for customization according to individual preferences and requirements.

Weighing a mere 26 oz, the X2 climbing stick combines lightweight convenience with uncompromising durability. The 10" step width provides ample standing room, while the 5" stand-off and V-bracket ensure a secure grip on trees. The XOP Slide Lock system enables easy stacking or side-by-side locking, optimizing portability and efficiency.

Crafted from high-quality 6061 and 7075 aluminum, the X2 climbing tool guarantees long-lasting performance. Its abrasion-resistant anodized finish enhances durability, while the integrated aider attachment points offer added versatility. With ASTM tested cam straps featuring DWR waterproofing and UV treatment, the X2 is prepared to withstand various weather conditions.

For latest prices, and more information about the XOP X2, click below!

Designed and manufactured in the USA, these sticks offer unmatched efficiency for saddle hunters out there!

Boasting a spacious step bed and increased foot clearance, these climbing sticks prioritize mobility and getting in the woods quickly. With a compact 3/4'' profile, they stack securely and attach directly to your stand. The D'Acquisto Series climbing sticks are now sold individually, allowing for personalized setups (not the biggest fan of that). Equipped with an extended length 1" cam strap buckle, fastening is quick and reliable.

Additional features include an asymmetrical concealment pattern, no-slip step design, hammered titanium finish, reversible steps, micro versa attachment buttons, and an integrated climbing grip. Specifications include weights ranging from 1lb 9oz to 2lb 6oz, an impressive 300lb weight rating, and the choice between Standard and micro lengths.

For latest prices, and more information on the Lone Wolf D'Acquisto Series Compact, take a look below!

So you want to buy some climbing sticks, but you don't want to spend a fortune? Check out this...

 These sticks are crafted using aircraft-grade aluminum, ensuring durability without sacrificing weight. Each 30-inch section weighs a mere 2.9 pounds, making them one of the lightest options available. With weight-saving cutouts and a foldable design, these sticks offer effortless transport during your hunting expeditions.

The Helium climbing sticks are designed with hunter convenience in mind. The versa button silent strap setup minimizes noise during setup, maintaining a stealthy approach. The TreeDigger Teeth provide a secure bite into bark, instilling confidence as you climb. Featuring a dual-sided step design, these lightweight aluminum sticks offer exceptional traction and stability on both sides, making your ascent and descent effortless.

Silent and foldable, these climbing sticks ensure a streamlined and compact package for easy transport. The steps can be folded up, and the sticks nest tightly together using silent lock technology suction cups, reducing noise and ensuring a secure fit. With their superior step traction, including grooves with raised ends for grabbing wet and muddy boots, these climbing sticks provide non-slip performance in challenging conditions.

For latest prices, and more information on the Hawk Helium, we have that as well!

As mentioned below, when it comes to climbing sticks, weight is the key factor for that final purchase!

Weighing a mere one pound per stick, the Tethrd One climbing sticks redefine portability without compromising on strength. Crafted from Grade 9 aerospace titanium, they offer exceptional durability and corrosion resistance.

The DynaLite Rope attachment adds to their overall weight, ensuring transparency in our claims. With the One Stick, installation is a breeze thanks to the patent-pending DynaLoc tab and the innovative DynaLite rope system. Achieve a secure and silent lock onto the tree in seconds, providing you with a hassle-free climbing experience.

Featuring a one-piece step/standoff design, the Tethrd One Stick offers a generous boot gripping step size and an 8.5" dual-step width, ensuring comfortable and agile climbing. The smart traction tread and boot containment design maximize climbing real estate, while the top stick doubles as a saddle hunting platform.

The StickLoc stacking system allows for whisper-quiet and compact transportation, eliminating the need for additional straps. With self-illuminating GLO-tabs for enhanced visibility in low-light conditions, user-replaceable ropes, and zero moving parts, the Tethrd One Stick is the epitome of reliability and ease of use.

For latest prices, and more information on the Tethrd One, we have that as well!

Weight is one of the most important characteristics of any mobile climbing device in the hunting world. You just can't lug around anything heavy and expect to go where nobody else is hunting. 

For this reason, and since climbing sticks are only part of the stand system, you have to remain lightweight.

As you can tell from the chart above, your options are going to range from around 16 oz to upwards of 3 lbs or so. Of course, the lighter you get, the more expensive they're going to be - especially since you're really not sacrificing any weight capacity.

Pro Tip: Try adding a dual step aider between your standard sticks for increased heigth with minimal steps.

The average length for climbing sticks for hunting is 14-20 inches. But you do have some 3 step options that go well up to 30 inches and more.

To understand which option is best for you, I would evaluate your own natural step height and compare it to the product you're considering. 

Most of these step configuration differences aren't really going to affect your final climbing height, especially if you use some additional tools (Take a look below).

As mentioned earlier, weight capacity doesn't vary to a great degree within the different brands and models of climbing sticks. 

At minimum, a durable and reliable step is going to hold around 300 lbs. However, there are a few options that can hold upwards of 350 lbs for those larger hunters. 

In short, climbing stick weight capacity choices are limited, but what's available is plenty enough optimal climbing comfort.

Many climbing sticks are made out of lightweight aluminum or titanium, but there are a few steel sets too. 

When it comes to this material, and carrying this in and out of the woods, you know you're going to create unwanted noise. Unfortunately, there's not a lot you can to avoid this when it comes to making the correct purchase.

However, be sure to check that the manufacture's sticks pack easily and in a compact manner. By having an efficient nesting system, you minimize movement and reduce noise.

A hunting climbing stick is a mobile ladder system that is divided into smaller step segments. These are used to climb trees for hang-on stands and saddle hunting.

Most hunters are going to utilize 3 to 4 climbing sticks, and because of this, you're going to have to develop a way to get each subsequent stick up in your hands to continue climbing quickly and efficiently. 

For me, I use a hang on system that's very similar to what's outlined in the video below. I use paracord loops that are tied to my lineman/safety harness. With the second, third, and fourth stepped tied to the side of my harness via this method, I can easily set my first step and proceed up tree, grabbing the next step quickly and easily when I'm ready.

To be honest, climbing sticks are probably one of the hardest ways to get up a tree, especially when compared to climbing stands or ladder stands.

Of course, they are a little easier when compared to the other climbing methods used by saddle hunters, but I wouldn't say they're simple by any means.

Climbing sticks are difficult because hunters try to use a few as needed to get as high as possible, and they try to do this relatively quickly. Both of these things, in my opinion, make them difficult. For anyone new to climbing sticks, I'd recommend starting off slow and using several climbing stick segments to get to your desired height - don't push it!

You don't need climbing sticks for tree saddle hunting, as there are several other climbing methods. Check out a few of the most popular options below:

1. Climbing Sticks

2. Ladder Steps

3. Drill Bolt System

4. Climbing Spurs

5. Silent Approach Steps

After doing quite a bit of research and testing, I found the best way to reduce noice from your climbing sticks is to utilize Stealth Tape. This easy to apply, self adhesive tape utilizes a revolutionary soft fabric that dampens the sounds made from metal on metal contact.

Also, be sure to wrap them tightly with Titan Straps when going in and out of the woods to prevent any movement.

Many of these climbing sticks are relatively expensive, and while they're pretty lightweight, most hunters try to limit the number they have to purchase and carry out in the woods. 

For this reason, and as a way to increase the end height of your climbing steps, most hunters will incorporate some sort of "aider".

These aiders come in one to three step options and hook around your climbing stick to provide a sort of temporary, in-between step so you can space out your sticks.

I would heavily recommend only purchasing these aiders from a reputable company. A lot of companies are building makeshift aiders, and some hunters are building them themselves. 

Unless it's been thoroughly tested and manufactured by a legitimate company, I would not use anything else. 

Answer: The brand Trophyline Tree Saddle Brand was first created in the 1980s.

For a blog about the Best Hunting Rangefinders, take a look today!

When it comes to deer hunting, there are literally hundreds of different rifle calibers that you can choose from. Some are extremely powerful with plenty of recoil, while others are on the lower end and much easier to shoot. Among all the popular choices, the .243 remains one of the most influential and comfortable deer rifle calibers out there.

So whether you’re looking for a specific caliber that has ammo commonly available or a new deer rifle that your significant other or kids can shoot, the .243 might be just what you are looking for. Here’s everything that you need to know!

The .243 has plenty of history to prove its worth. First introduced by Winchester in 1955, it was designed on the concept of necking down the casing of the popular .308 Winchester. But, unlike the .308, this caliber ended up having much milder recoil while still having a flat trajectory and excellent accuracy.

Through the years, the .243 hasn’t seen many changes. You’re easily able to find just about any brand or model of a rifle chambered in this caliber, and ammunition is even easier to find. The .243 typically shoots bullets that range from 55 to 105 grains depending on what you’re hunting and your preferences. I love using smaller-grain bullets (like 55 grains) for predator hunting while sizing up to 95 or 105-grain bullets for larger game like deer.

With plenty of versatility and mild recoil, the .243 has been one of the most popular deer hunting calibers out there. Opponents of this caliber argue that it is not powerful enough, has limited stopping power, and is too susceptible to wind drift. While it’s true the .243 is not as big or powerful as other popular deer calibers like the .308, .30-06, or even the 6.5 Creedmoor, it’s still plenty to kill a deer as long as you’re using the right ammo!

As I mentioned earlier, the .243 functions perfectly as both a coyote rifle and a deer hunting rifle. But ammunition selection is everything. Coyotes can be killed with just about anything, although I’ve found the smaller bullets do less damage to the pelts. That being said, I wouldn’t want to take any chances on deer and would size up for a deer hunt.

95-grain bullets are often the most popular, with 100 or 105 right behind. But just as important as size is the type of bullet you’re shooting. I’ve had great success with both soft points and ballistic tips, although any high-quality bullet from a reputable manufacturer is sure to quickly and effectively put down a deer.

Because the .243 isn’t quite as powerful as other calibers, shot placement can be crucial during a hunt. As with any rifle or weapon, you should be patient and wait for a clean, broadside shot within a reasonable distance that you feel confident at. With this in mind, there’s no reason to doubt the .243 in putting the venison in the freezer. If you do your part, this caliber will definitely do its part when needed.

Now let’s get to the question everyone has been wondering. We know the .243 is a little on the lighter side, but has an excellent trajectory and is a very flat shooter. So how far can it shoot and what’s the maximum range a hunter should expect? Well, it depends.

Standard ammo out of the .243 will give you somewhere around 2900 to 3100 feet per second of speed depending on the load and bullet weight. These faster speeds are what give the .243 its flat trajectory and less bullet drop compared to other calibers. But just how far should you be shooting at a deer?

To best answer that question, it will come down to the specific bullet and load that a person is using. Everything from the bullet weight, construction, and ballistic characteristics will play a part in the max range of a gun. For example, a lighter bullet will be faster and shoot flatter, but heavier bullets will provide better penetration and energy to put down an animal.

With that in mind, most hunters would agree that the max effective range of a .243 for deer hunting will be anywhere from 200 to 400 yards.

Other external factors will also come into play, from the wind, weather, and shooting position. You also have to consider the skill level of the shooter, so really the maximum effective range will vary from person to person and situation to situation. In my experience, the .243 excels as a rifle for new shooters, women, or children thanks to its mild recoil and shots shouldn’t be taken too far anyways.

So is the .243 the perfect deer caliber? Honestly, I don’t think it is. But there are so many things that it does right that I think it deserves a place in every hunter’s gun safe. From the mild recoil and versatility of a deer/coyote rifle to its decades of proven history, there’s really no denying how influential this caliber has been (and continues to be).

What it lacks in power and penetration (similar to the 223 caliber), it makes up for with everything else. While my old .243 isn’t my first pick when headed out on a deer hunt these days, it’s almost always my go-to when my wife or kids have a deer hunt lined up. And to this day, it has yet to let us down.

For more than half a century, deer hunters everywhere have often leaned towards their reliable .243 when heading out to the woods. So whether you’re a veteran hunter or a complete beginner, the .243 can be the perfect choice for a successful deer hunt. Just don’t forget to get plenty of practice, understand the rifle’s limitations, and prioritize safe shooting practices and you will not be disappointed with your .243 deer hunting rifle!

Additionally, we have a great blog about the Best Hunting Clothing Brands!

The list for the best hunting coolers is now in for this year, and it's time to explore the top options!

Once the hunt is done, it's time to pack up your gear and haul off the main prize from your journey - the meat. 

Now, I know there's a lot of arguments out there on how, where, and what is best when storing your game, but there's no doubt that a good, reliable hunting cooler is needed in the process.

The Quick Summary
Overall, the Best Hunting Cooler is the Yeti Tundra 65!
Below you can check out other top cooler options including the... 
- Best Hunting Backpack Cooler: Yeti Hopper M20 Backpack 
- Best Hunting Cooler For Large Game: Orca 140 QT
- Best Hunting Cooler For The Money: RTIC Ultra-Light Cooler
And scroll down to find out the one thing to remember when buying a hunting cooler!

I've hunted for over 2 decades using a variety of coolers, and just like many of you, I started by bringing along a simple, cheap cooler. But those days are long gone - the technology has improved and you have way more options to choose from.

I'm going to walk you through a few of my favorite coolers I've tested, and the ones I use each and every year when I'm out in the field. Of course, these might not be the best for everyone, but they've definitely been tested and I'm going to share my pros and cons of each.

Trivia Question: When was the first modern cooler invented? (Click here to see answer).

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I know - it's a little stereotypical, but this really is my top pick for the best hunting cooler, and I'll explain why...

The Yeti Tundra 65 cooler has an extremely durable roto-molded construction with PermaFrost insulation to keep your game cool, while the T-Rex Lid latches guarantee a high level of security.

Additionally, the ColdLock Gasket seals in the cold, while convenient features like DoubleHaul  Handles, AnchorPoint™ Tie-Down Slots, and BearFoot Non-Slip Feet justify this somewhat expensive price point.

Some might say that this is perfect option for hunts because the Yeti Tundra 65 cooler keeps your meat fresh and cold for days no matter the outside environment.

For latest prices, and more information about the Yeti Tundra 65, click below!

I purchased the original Yeti backpack cooler years ago, and I didn't think it could get any better, but little did I know....

The Yeti Hopper Backpack M20 cooler is truly one of the most innovative designs on the market oday. This soft cooler, ideal for any hunting trip, boasts a 20 qt capacity, accommodating 18 cans with a refreshing 2:1 ice-to-can ratio.

Its rugged DryHide shell resists punctures, UV rays, and mildew, ensuring longevity in the face of adversity. Within its core, ColdCell insulation locks in the cold, preserving the chill of your beverages for hours of enjoyment.

Yeti's latest Hopper iteration introduces a wider opening and innovative MagShield Access (and this is my favorite part). The magnetic seal ensures leak resistance while facilitating easy packing and unpacking. This remarkable cooler, complete with buckles, daisy chains, side handles, carry handles, and a removable shoulder strap, stands as a versatile companion for your adventures.

Take a chance on the Yeti Hopper Backpack M20 cooler and see how well it works out for you on your next hunting trip!

For latest prices, and more information on the Yeti Hopper M20, take a look below!

For those hunters that need the maximum size cooler to haul any sort of large game out of the woods, I would take a look at the Orca 140qt cooler.

Its roto-molded construction offers the highest level of durability, while the built-in insulation delivers remarkable ice retention, keeping your food and beverages icy cold for an astounding duration of up to 10 days. The cold-sealing gasket and secure T-handle latches guarantee airtight closure, preserving freshness with unwavering dedication.

Transporting this cooler is super easy, thanks to the extendable handle with flex grip, allowing you to carry it solo or with a companion. For added convenience, a cargo-net attachment provides extra storage, while the integrated drainage spout prevents pooling of melting ice. Proudly made in the USA, the Orca 140-qt. Cooler showcases high-quality in every aspect.

Lastly, with a capacity to hold up to 192 cans, the Orca 140 will provide any hunter with a food day of "chilled refreshments" following a long day of hunting!

For latest prices, and more information on the Orca 140 QT, we have that as well!

The all-new RTIC Ultra-Light Hard Cooler 32 qt is the answer to any hunter looking for an affordable and lightweight cooler option.

Designed to be over 30% lighter than other coolers of the same capacity, it's the perfect companion for a short day out in the woods. Equipped with up to 2.5 inches of closed-cell foam insulation, this cooler takes extreme temperature preservation to the next level.

Durability and long-lasting ice retention are at the core of this portable cooler's design. With interior dimensions of 11.25” H x 18.25” W x 11” D and exterior dimensions of 14.5” H x 23” W x 15.5” D, it offers ample space for your needs.

The 32 quart model stands tall with a capacity of up to 48 cans and can hold a staggering 30 lbs of dry ice or standard ice. But its usefulness doesn't end there – it can double up as a bench, step stool, tabletop, or even an additional cutting board. If I were you, I would move fast on the RTIC Ultra-Light Hard Cooler 32 qt and add this to your hunting gear wishlist. 

For latest prices, and more information on the RTIC Ultra-Light Cooler, we have that as well!

According to Grizzly coolers and PromoLeaf, there are three main types of insulation found in coolers:

1. Cheaper coolers use Styrofoam (extruded polystyrene).

2. While premium coolers use Polyurethane Foam.

3. And many soft coolers use Polyethylene Foam.

Of course some companies will add a propriety name to their own foam, but this should cover the main core types. 

Pro Tip: For optimized packing, place ice packs on the bottom of the cooler, then fill in the gaps with ice cubes.

Most of the aforementioned hard coolers are going to be made out of some sort of food grade UV-resistant polyethylene plastic. Furthermore, these shapes are going to be made using a roto-molding style of construction. This means that the plastics are softened then placed in a mold.

Of course, these top coolers are going to have much thicker plastic than your standard cooler. This not only helps keep your items cooler, but it also protects the heavily insulated core from outside penetration.

When you're spending this much on a hunting cooler, you need to make sure you have a way to lock these things up.

If you know you're going to leave your cooler in the back of your truck or down by your fishing hole, I would only purchase a cooler from a brand that offers some sort of locking bracket.

Most coolers have a small thread hold on the corners that you can run a cable lock through, but having something a little more sturdy than this might be needed. 

Size is the most deceiving thing about today's top-rated hunting coolers. You step into your local sporting good's store or purchase on online expecting it to carry your kill, and BAM you open it up and realize there's hardly any room!

From my own experience I would pay almost no attention to exterior dimensions (unless your trying to store it somewhere) and focus on interior dimensions and most importantly capacity.

For instance, for every 100 lbs. of game meat (deboned), you'll need a 50 qt. cooler. Use this equation to evaluate which size is best for you and your style of hunting.

Hunting Cooler Size by Species

Hunting cooler prices can range from an affordable $50 to upwards of $700-$800. 

Of course, like any piece of hunting gear, you're going to pay for a combination of brand recognition and quality. What I mean is... the most expensive cooler isn't always going to be the best for you or your hunting situation. 

I would highly recommend first setting a budget, and seeing what options exist within this price point. From there, compare the different features to the next level up and see if it's really worth spending more.

A hunting cooler is an insulated container that keeps your game meat cool.

The top hunting cooler brands including the following:

1. Yeti

2. Orca

3. RTIC

4. Cabela's

5. Orion

6. Pelican

Yeti is most definitely one of the top brands for anyone in the market for a cooler. However, claiming it as the best overall brand is tough. Personally speaking, Yeti's prices do tend to drive people away, leaving room for more affordable options to appeal to different types of hunters.

For deer, if quartered, you can get away with a 65–75-quart cooler, depending on whether it is a doe or buck. If you can butcher and debone the animal, your cooler size can be as little as 50-60 quarts.

Storing elk meat will take 3-4 150-quart coolers. If completely deboned (and around 270 lbs. of meat), you can use one 150-quart coolers for an average elk.

For a full step-by-step guide on how to prep your cooler, check out this guide on the best ways to prep a hunting cooler.

If you take a look at most hunting coolers today, you'll notice that they look huge! You might even take a look at the manufacturer's measurements and see if the cooler is going to be big enough for what you want. 

Be careful though!

Before buying a cooler make sure you pay attention to the interior dimensions and capacity of the cooler. Today's coolers have extra thick walls - making the actual size/capacity of the cooler much smaller than anticipated.

In case you're wondering how thick some of these coolers' walls are, check it out:

Yeti - 2-inch Insulation (Lid is 3 inches)

RTIC - 3-inch Insulation

Orca - 3-4-inch Insulation

Cabela's - 4-5-inch Insulation

Answer: The first modern cooler was constructed in 1944 during World War II from Dow Chemical with the invention of Styrofoam.

For a blog about KUIU vs. Sitka Gear, take a look today!

No matter if you're going out fishing, checking on your hunting gear, or just lounging around the house, you need the best camo crocs to stay comfortable and stylish. 

Over the years, Crocs has created several different designs and colorways for those outdoor lovers that are looking for a good pair of camo crocs. Unforunately, till now, it's been a little hard to find them all. 

So, I decided to round up the 6 Top Camo Crocs available today and put them all in one place. I hope you enjoy and find one that you really want to purchase!

Calling all those looking for the ultimate camo Croc! It's here!

This classic design is now available in a new camo print, and these lightweight wonders have taken the world by storm. With their incredible lightweightness and fun factor, the Classic Printed Camo Clogs offer a breath of fresh air for your feet.

These babies are water-friendly, easy to clean, and quick to dry, making them the perfect choice for any adventure. The pivoting heel straps provide a secure fit, while the customizable Jibbitz charms allow you to personalize your style.

And let's not forget the iconic Croc's comfort, which offers lightweight, flexible, and all-around comfort. Get ready to take your comfort and step into a whole new world.

In case you're looking for something a little outside of the classic Croc's clog form, I decided to showcase the latest all-terrain sandals.

The Croc flip-flop style shoes have a two-strap upper and an adjustable turbo heel straps for a snug, accommodating fit. From there, you'll get a rugged lug outsoles with added tread for increased traction.

Lastly, don't sleep on the fully molded Croslite™ foam uppers which are easy to clean and quick to dry.

And yes don't forget about the super clean Realtree Edge camo pattern.

If you have a kid that loves the outdoors and wants to match his mom or dad's camo Crocs, check out these!

They are built with light, supportive Croslite™ foam createng an orthotic footbed for long-lasting comfort. Also, they have a pivoting heel strap for a secure fit.

And you can't forget about the fact that these Crocs are easy to clean - making them a perfect fit for any kid that's outside all day long.

Similar to the model mentioned above, these Crocs offer all the expected awesome features with a new classic printed camo.

You can rest easy knowing you just purchased a pair of Crocs that's ncredibly light and fun to wear. Also, these are water-friendly and buoyant - weighing only ounces.

And for those hot summer days and nights, remember these clogs have ventilation ports for added breathability to help shed water and debris.

Yes, Crocs took their classic design and made it a little more rugged!

To dive deeper, these Crocs come with a more rugged outsole and an adjustable turbo strap. Furthermore, the lightweight Croslite construction makes them an easy pack for any outdoor adventure.

And as you'd expect, the Realtree Edge camo pattern has these shoes looking super clean for any outing.

What's better than a classic camo designed Croc? Umm... one you can wear in the winter time too!

These Crocs offer a soft, fuzzy liners, to increase the cushion and comfort you already love and enjoy.

Also, these are great as slippers, but can still be used to go outside if needed. These are incredibly light and fun to wear and have a pivoting heel straps for a more secure fit.

Before you make your final purchase, take a second to review these frequently asked questions and most popular related topics:

Most of the time, you don't need to change your standard shoe size to fit crocs. However, if you want to double check, take a look at Croc's size guide.

Crocs has a partnership with Realtree camo.

Yes, Crocs did create a special shoe just for Luke Combs in a classic camo.

Also, we have a great blog about the Best KUIU Hunting Gear if you're interested!

Hunting is about more than successfully harvesting your target. One of the most satisfying parts of hunting is using the wild game to feed your friends and family. But the best hunt can turn to disaster if your wild game fails to make it to the table unspoiled. Because of this, many hunters find themselves asking the question, "How big a cooler do I need for hunting?"

Whether at a remote hunting camp, traveling to another state, or simply hunting more than a few hours from home, you will eventually need to transport wild game. Not only will you need to transport the game, but you will also need to keep it cool enough to prevent spoiling. This will require a large enough cooler to transport the meat in various processed stages, as well as ice to keep it cool. Let's take a look at what that might mean before you purchase the best hunting cooler out there.

First, you need to figure the density of your meat. If we go by venison as the standard density of meat for any similar game species, based on this chart it has a density of 1 g/ml. 

From there, we use a simple calculator and some helpful advice from Practical Self Reliance, to get an estimate that one quart will hold two pounds of meat.

Put in a different manner, for every 100 lbs. of game meat (deboned), you'll need a 50 qt. cooler. Just cut the total weight of all your meat in half, and that's the size cooler you need!

Whitetail deer and antelope may not be genetically related or found in the same hunting areas, but they share one crucial trait-size. An adult of either species is close enough in size to place both in the same category in terms of the cooler size needed.

A small whitetail deer or antelope can easily fit inside an 80-quart cooler whole with hide removed. If quartered, you can get away with a 65–75-quart cooler, depending on whether it is a doe or buck. If you can butcher and debone the animal, your cooler size can be as little as 50-60 quarts.

Although the typical mule deer averages 15-20% larger than a whitetail, they can grow much larger, up to 300 lbs. vs. 200 lbs. for a white tail. This means your cooler will also need to increase in size as well.

A smaller mule deer may fit in a cooler whole. However, the average hunter is after trophies, not dinks. This means that you will almost always need to process your harvest. A quartered mule deer, with bones in place, typically requires a 105-quart cooler. If deboned, this will drop to a 75–80-quart option.

Even as the smaller of the bear species, an adult black bear is an extraordinary animal. The size of their head, body, and paws leaves hunters in awe. They easily exceed 300 lbs. Many hunters believe that this means they will require a supply of large coolers to transport their prize home, but you would be surprised how wrong they are.

It would be impossible to transport a bear whole. Therefore, processing is necessary before transport. However, once processed, bears are much smaller than they appear. The hide made up much of their mass, followed by the head. They also contain a large percentage of body fat verse usable meat, allowing a quartered black bear to fit in a 150-quart cooler. For deboned meat, you can use a 100-quart cooler.

Anyone who has ever seen an elk in the wild knows they dwarf almost any other North American big game species. The 100-quart cooler you used for a mule deer may not even fit ½ of your elk meat regardless of how you prepare it. Large coolers (yes, coolers, multiple) will be needed to avoid wasting a lot of your meat.

Most hunters will quarter an elk for initial transports from the hunting location to the cabin or base camp. However, due to the size of these quarters, only some will fit into an average cooler. Even if you could, lifting the cooler after it loaded would be impossible. Once quartered, storing the meat will take 3-4 150-quart coolers. If completely deboned (and around 270 lbs. of meat), you can use one 150-quart coolers for an average elk.

Only a few hunters are lucky enough to harvest a moose. If you are saving, the meat is a necessity. But moose yield a lot of moose, so be prepared with several large coolers.

The average moose can weigh as much as 1600 pounds and be over 6 feet tall. Dressed, it will weigh approximately 950 pounds and yield almost 500 pounds of usable meat. A field-dressed moose is not being transported in coolers. Even when quartered, most coolers are too small for the meat to fit. Moose are so large that many hunters install a freezer in the bed of their truck or on a trailer for transporting the meat. If you fully process the meat, a minimum of 5-6 150-quart coolers will be needed.

Again, if completely deboned (and around 500 lbs. of meat), you can get away with two 150-quart coolers.

Regardless of what species you are harvesting, you may want to save the hide. You may want to keep the head if it is a buck. If so, consider having another cooler on hand. Preserving the hide and head the same way you preserve the meat will protect it for mounting.

Unless you are an experienced butcher or utilize a guide who performs this service, chances are you will not end up with perfect cuts of meat. In most cases, the above estimates are based on packing quartered or processed meat with enough room for ice. There is minimal leeway.

With this in mind, it is recommended that an additional smaller 45 or 50-quart cooler be on hand for scraps, heart, liver, and any other odds & ends you may find remaining.

Please do not overdo it....

It may be easier to take the largest cooler available. This could be a mistake that costs you dearly. Extra room in the cooler makes it harder to keep items cool. Adding more ice will make it heavier and harder to move. Plus, unless packed correctly, your meat could stay healthy before reaching your destination.

Hopefully, this information helps you better prepare for your next hunting adventure and the triumphant return with a freezer full of wild game. Field to the table – no better way to enjoy all the aspects of a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Also, for a blog about How Many People A Deer Will Feed, we have the key information! 

In collaboration with the University of New Hampshire's Wildlife Management and Modeling Lab (WMML) and New Hampshire Fish and Game, the New England Chapter of Backcountry Hunters & Anglers (BHA) is enthusiastic about its support towards substantial two part study on moose and mesocarnivores (such as bobcats, foxes, coyotes, and fishers) in the state of New Hampshire. This study utilizes around 300 camera traps (trail cameras) across the state to investigate population dynamics and provide valuable data for future wildlife management decisions.

Chris Borgatti, the New England Chapter Coordinator, expressed his excitement about the project, saying, "I'm thrilled that the chapter is supporting this study, which will significantly contribute to the management of one of New England's most iconic species." Having spent a day with the WMML team in the field last spring, he was convinced of the project's potential. The chapter has undertaken the responsibility of "adopting" research grids, which involves collecting data by swapping out SD cards, and maintaining the cameras within each grid. This entails checking battery levels, replacing SD